|Black and Tan
|In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise|
Fun route that has good variety of angles from slabbing to slightly overhanging to bulging. Awesome holds.
This route is one to the left of Glutton for Punishment
9 bolts, maybe more
Amber's got 'er in the bag on Crime and Punishment
|By Nathan Marsh|
From: st. george utah
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
like others have said, a lot of new bolts/lines over here which makes the guide book confusing. Make sure you count bolts and make sure you are turning up the right route or you could end up on a 5.12 instead of a 10a.
May 15, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fun climb, clip the 2nd bolt of Glutton for Punishment and head left through a bulge with some cool pockets. There's also another line of bolts between Crime and Punishment and Glutton for Punishment. Clip the 6th bolt of Glutton for Punishment and head up the blocky face to the left. I seem to remember 5 bolts to rap rings, 5.10-. Def. worth doing.
|By Shawn Heath|
From: Forchheim, Germany
Mar 3, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I don't agree with boltclippinfool on how this route runs. I do, however, agree with most of the rest of what he says. Here's my route description.
Start on Glutton for Punishment for the first two bolts. Runout the rest of the even easier slab (5.3) to the bolt line on the left. Follow this straight up through a bulge and great pockets to a crimpy and balancey crux at the anchor where the weight of the rope makes the moves feel more difficult than they are. 5.9 tops and something like 8 bolts to rap rings.