Crevasse rescue pulleys

We've been practicing setting anchors and pulleys and general crevasse rescue techniques for an upcoming trip on Alaska. As we problem solve each new situation we got to thinking about a block pulley system (like is used for a main sail on a small sailboat). It's small, relatively light and can be set up on a single anchor location. Can this be used as an alternative to setting up a "Z", or double z, system to haul out big loads/people? Pros? Cons? Thanks for your input

Sure you could use a block and tackle pulley system. The issue is that usually you carry this all pre-rigged. That makes it great for fast deployment, but it makes it non-versatile. When you carry a couple carabiners, and a couple cordalettes separate, all of these individual pieces could be used in a variety of ways. For me it comes down to weight and versatility. If I already carry the gear necessary, I don't want to add to that a pulley system specific to crevasse rescue. However, you should take whatever the group is comfortable with and has practiced using. The middle of a rescue is not the time to try and figure out sometime. Keep on practicing and good luck on your upcoming Alaskan adventure!

You could get one of these...
climbing.com/gear/mammut-re…

I like the Canadian drop-loop system, usually because the victims rope can cut deep into the crevasse lip, so you have to send down a fresh line to rig off of any way.

The hardest part about crevasse rescue is escaping the belay(arrest), the times I have caught falls, especially with a chest harness on it hurts my back. To escape the arrest fast, I carry a pre rigged radium release quick draw. That way I can transfer the the arrest rope to the fresh line after the anchor is built.

Taylor if I am seeing your set up correctly it looks like what's actually called a radium release hitch. Remember your compact not stars at the load when you make your wraps. If that's 7mm cord you could get away with 6mm or 5.5mm vectram cord only if it's for a single person load. If you use this system for a two person rescue load then you need to bump up to an 8mm cord. I personally don't have this pre rigged when I am climbing. This is my normal 10m cordalette wrapped up in a compact manner for anchor systems or companion rescue. Again not trying to change your set up... Just clarifying your terminology. Glad you have this as an option in your bag of tools,

Matt

Taylor-B. wrote:I like the Canadian drop-loop system, usually because the victims rope can cut deep into the crevasse lip, so you have to send down a fresh line to rig off of any way. The hardest part about crevasse rescue is escaping the belay(arrest), the times I have caught falls, especially with a chest harness on it hurts my back. To escape the arrest fast, I carry a pre rigged radium release quick draw. That way I can transfer the the arrest rope to the fresh line after the anchor is built.

I don't use a chest harness on glaciated terrain as my own experience has taught me that it really sucks being pulled from the sternum catching a fall. I understand the advantages, but I opt out.
Nevertheless, I am curious about this radium release hitch you have rigged up. It looks like you have a munter on one side and some sort of knot on a bite on the other with a bunch of wraps? I have yet to see this guy.
I mainly belay from my prussiks so the load transfer is easiest when building the anchor at waist level and transfering the weight directly without having to rely on a 3rd member to set