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Walt enjoying the big holds. August 2012.
One of the better 5.9s at El Rito, however, it may be just a little scary for the 5.9 leader down low due to moderately long spacing between bolts. There are, however, bolts where you need them. Has a nice little overhung section, which is unusual at the 5.9 grade. Start on the arete on the right side of the wall (right next to the corridor), and move to the right through the overhang. Shares anchors with Tooth Fairy.
5 bolts to anchors
|By Larry Earley|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 8, 2006
Maybe the newest route at El Rito. Easy start like 6-7. Fun route for newer leaders. Crux is 9+ but short.
|By Jason Hundhausen|
From: Bozeman, MT
Nov 21, 2007
Very fun route. Can't in good conscience give it 3 stars due to the crappy third bolt. It's in solid and doesn't wobble (it's a Rawl), but it protrudes from the rock face by 3/4 of an inch. Whoever bolted it didn't take the time to make sure the hole was drilled deep enough.
|By manuel rangel|
Nov 11, 2009
Someone fixed the bolt last mentioned cause I didn't see that. I thought the start was the crux and quite runout for a nine leader. Maybe I just didn't find the right holds, as usual. After that, nothing but big holds, just hard to see at first cause of the shade.
Sep 25, 2012
Fun sport climb with an interesting crux move over a small overhanging section. I would not want to take a lead fall after the second bolt as you may hit the ledge. The bolt there is hanging out of the rock about a 1/4" Excellent climb.