Crescent Moon  5.10+ PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  JJ Schlick, James Q Martin New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  JJ Schlick on Jun 16, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Dan Foster on Crescent Moon

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Description 

A fine pitch despite the blocky start. Start right of The Harder They Come, in a scrappy dihedral with a sycamore growing out of it. Move up past blocks and left under roofs. Get established in the steep fingers of a left facing dihedral. A #0 and #2 TCU give you some comfort in the beginning of the fingers and be ready with a couple more #2 TCUs as you continue up. After the fingers section you will pass a horizontal break and a hands pod- #2 Camalot. Rest up and start looking for thin wires above you. Be ready to place and trust several #2 stoppers. A move up will allow you to place a #3 stopper. Be smart with you feet and pull through the crux placing another REALLY good #5 stopper or similar sized offset. One or two more #1 TCUs will give you a sense of solidity as you crank off the airy last moves to the anchors.

Location 

To the right of The Harder They Come.

Protection 

The whole range of TCUs bulking up on the finger sizes, A #2 camalot will find a home mid route. Small, medium wires.

Photos of Crescent Moon Slideshow

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Keith Beckley staring down the crux.