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Honeymooner's Area
Routes Sorted
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Bonemaster Gear Fling, The S 
Channel Zero S 
Color Blind T 
Crescent Moon T 
Double Flat S 
Harlequin S 
Jackie Gleason Flake, The T 
Jesus and Tequila  S 
Libertine S 
Lunar Debris T 
Moonraker T 
Muckraker S 
Quinsana Plus S 
Rabbit Almost Died, The T 
Sacrilege S 
Satanic Verses S 
Walking on the Moon T 
Wire Train T 

Crescent Moon 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike Artz, Stanley Todd, 1985
Page Views: 1,042
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on May 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Getting into the middle of the Crescent Moon. We ...

Description 

Climb the widening, arching crack located just downstream of the Honeymooners Ladders. A few off-width moves mixed with some "arete" climbing, laybacking...you will need it all.


Protection 

Take some big gear. I took a 4 and 5 and used both of them. Wouldn't have minded another 5, so I didn't have to walk it up so far. Rings at the top.



Photos of Crescent Moon Slideshow Add Photo
Canadian fire fighter Dave Brown has a thing for off width cracks.  Here getting in to the Crescent Moon.  Photo: John Ely
Canadian fire fighter Dave Brown has a thing for o...
It's wide.
It's wide.
Starting Crescent Moon
Starting Crescent Moon
Knee pads always come in handy on the wide cracks, as do the big cams.
Knee pads always come in handy on the wide cracks,...
Comments on Crescent Moon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
May 27, 2008

After leading this route and running it way out, my wife says "I was more nervous watching you lead this, than some 11's."

By mbuntaine
From: Durham, NC
Sep 6, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

This is a great climb, but unless you have a #5, it can be pretty scary at the top. The horizontals that can be used for smaller gear run out about 30 feet below the anchors. Up to that point, it protects reasonably well with a rack to 3"

By justin Jakimiak
From: Plainwell, MI
Nov 5, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

I wouldnt attempt this route unless you have at least doubles on #4, #4.5, #5 Camalots. it is possible to stitch it up tighter than a $1200 Armani suit but it takes some huge gear, i only found 2 horizontal placements, as amazing an experience as this climb was, it was a wreckless choice for my third trad lead in retrospect.
bring big gear and enjoy :)

By Alan Howell
Apr 26, 2012

OLD SCHOOL 5.7 CLASSIC! You'll feel like you're dragging the kitchen sink behind you considering the gear it takes to make it safe, but it does gear up. Bring a few mid to small cams, and look for couple trick tri-cams if you're so inclined. For those looking to dial in their off-width and chicken wing technique, this is a great choice. If your technique is off its going to feel a bit more like a bar fight than a classic route, but once you get dialed in, its quite the adventure.