Crescent Crack, Original Route
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A strenuous approach, a remote location, and an excellent line conspire to make Crescent Crack a worthy objective for climbers looking for something with an adventurous, alpine feel. The line can be clearly observed from Oracle Road as the obvious crack system that cleaves the intersection of the North Buttress and West Face of Table Mountain. Featured in the Kerry guide.
After finding the start to Cherry Jam, locate a tree to the right with old slings and rap 80 feet to 3rd class slab. Traverse right several meters to an obvious messy looking crack system. Rope up here.
Pitch 1: Launch up the crack system pulling onto a ledge with some trees after 35 meters. Either belay here, or continue for another 20 meters past a dihedral, and belay within sight of the crux chimney system.
Pitch 2: Head into the chimney passing an old rusty bolt just before the real difficulties begin. Make your way upwards as the chimney becomes increasingly narrow (5.9+) until you emerge at a wonderful belay ledge complete with two 3/8" bolts. I believe the Left Variation of this route joins a bit higher up from this spot.
Pitch 3: Continue up easier blocky terrain and enter another chimney, belaying where comfortable.
Pitch 4: Climb the superb right facing corner to its end and make a few moves right to an exposed belay on one new and two old bolts.
Pitch 5: Make a couple of insecure moves straight up from the belay placing small gear where you can in a narrow vegetated seem. Clip a bolt on the arete as the angle eases. Move left around an agave and find your way to easy ground angling right. Top out.
Walk north past summit cairn and locate rap bolts above the north gully. One or two raps and some scrappy down climbing take you back to the vicinity of Cherry Jam.
Reach the toe of the North Buttress of Table Mountain by hiking up from the West. Find a well marked trail behind the housing development at Rams Field Pass that heads in the direction of Table Mountain. Follow cairns to a saddle just beneath the North Buttress. Head up and right into a gully which allows you to gain 3rd class terrain leading to the base proper. Locate Cherry Jam and the rap tree. Total approach time 2.5 to 3.5 hours. If you get lost, much longer. Bring a headlamp for the hike out.
Bring your standard trad rack with at least one 5" cam for the crux chimney. Double ropes not necessary.
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