Crescent Crack, Left Variation
H after the second pitch of the Left Variation of ...
Crescent Left is a great, Sonoran alpine-type route with huge exposure and consistent climbing up the proud central buttress and dihedral of Table Mountain. Expect strenuous crack climbing, easy to moderate chimneying, and even a bit of slab. There are sections of looseness, but only enough to heighten the experience. Other sections are as bulletproof as it gets. All belays are on gear except for p4’s single anchor. Partial sun on pitches 3-6 can be a blessing or curse depending on temps.
P1 Climb the thin crack past steep rock to gain a good belay spot in a large corner. (5.10a, 80’)
P2 Move right 10 feet to climb a flake and left facing corner. Fire up the awesome crack, eventually reaching easier climbing up blocky terrain, all the way to a belay behind a huge boulder. Be sure to have medium nuts along for this sustained rope-stretcher. (5.10, 190’)
P3 From the right side of the belay ledge tunnel up the fun chimney until a funky roof necessitates moving right, then up past some beargrass to a gear belay. (5.9-, 115’)
P4 Climb the giant right-facing dihedral to its end and then traverse right 15’ to a stance around the corner at a bolt belay. Many hand to fist sized pieces on this cool pitch. I used a #5 friend but probably could have gotten by with substituting another #4 instead (save some weight). There are two original ¼”ers, one fat new bolt, and possibly a piece back towards the traverse for a belay. This could use another new belay bolt. (5.9-, 150’)
P5 Head up the open book plugging gear into pods until a move left to slabby arête and bolt. Continue up the slab to a traverse left past an agave then up to easier ground. (5.9, 100’)
P6 Pick a way to climb up through the summit overhang, watching for loose blocks. (100’)
Descend via north rap (1 double-rope) or descent gully (2 single rope raps and scrambling).
Approach and Start
Northwest Buttress of Table Mountain
Approach via Pima Canyon and rap N side or up from Rams Field Pass to the west.
Begin at a good belay spot slightly below and right from the highest point of the toe of Table, just up from the rappel tree for the original start. To get to the start of the original route, rap and traverse over to a bushy ledge and crack system. Three pitches up these two routes join at the boulder ledge belay. See Kerry guide for original beta.
North Rappel bolts are 40' down ledges off the end nearest the next formation to the east (Great campsite nearby at the summit). It may be wise to bring tat for the anchor. It's about 160' to the tree, a 60M allows passing another slab. From here, another short rap or a scramble around and down brings you to the ramp cutting along the east face.
cams: 1 ea 0.5-3", 2 ea 0.75-2.5" (maybe 3"), 1 ea 4" (optional)
1 set nuts, esp mediums
ropes: 1 60M, or 2x60M if doing N rap
|Photos of Crescent Crack, Left Variation Slideshow
|Comments on Crescent Crack, Left Variation
|By Jared Guglielmo|
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 2, 2013
Pitch 2 is a RIGHT facing corner and is an absolutely fantastic pitch. I climbed to the end of the rope and belayed behind a ~7 foot tall block on a ledge. The 3rd pitch had nothing resembling "tunneling through a fun chimney" and was more like climbing over loose blocks to fun moves right around a roof. This is a great route.