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DescriptionThe climbing here consists of both sport and trad, mostly trad.The rock is bomber granite, similar to the rest of the canyon. Some of the classic routes are: Mexican Crack (.10a), Crescent Crack (5.7), Crack in the Woods (5.9), and Hand Jive (5.8?).You can rappel most routes from the top of the climbs with a single rope, except Crescent Crack, which is descended east into a gully. Buy beer at 7-11 at the base of BCC, or better yet, go to Wyoming! Getting TherePark in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below the Cresent Crack Buttress. Take the left fork and a short jaunt leads you to the base of Waterslide. Head left for the climbs. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Crescent Crack Buttress:
Crescent Crack 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet
Hand Jive 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Lazarus 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II
Crack in the Woods 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Crescent Crack Direct Variation 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Final Link 5.9 Trad, 120 feet
3 Amigos 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Mexican Crack 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Lunge or Plunge 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Missing Link 5.10 R Trad, 3 pitches
Multiplicity 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Who's On First 5.10d Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Ross Route, The 5.11a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Grunting Gringos 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Closet Lycra 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am 5.11+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Rotert's Rooter 5.11d Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
If Looks Could Kill 5.11d R Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
No Jive Arete 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Featured Route For Crescent Crack Buttress
Final Link 5.9 UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Crescent Crack Buttress
Stem up through the spike from the Crescent Crack Direct variation and clip first bolt. The crux here is to not pull on the draw and do the cool mantle onto the slab. Clip next bolt then set up belay at the two bolts. Beautiful slab that wanders a bit left and right. runners could be helpful on a few of the bolts to reduce rope drag. If done as the finish to Crescent Crack this route has it all....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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