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The climbing here consists of both sport and trad, mostly trad.The rock is bomber granite, similar to the rest of the canyon. Some of the classic routes are: Mexican Crack (.10a), Crescent Crack (5.7), Crack in the Woods (5.9), and Hand Jive (5.8?).You can rappel most routes from the top of the climbs with a single rope, except Crescent Crack, which is descended east into a gully. Buy beer at 7-11 at the base of BCC, or better yet, go to Wyoming!
Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below the Cresent Crack Buttress. Take the left fork and a short jaunt leads you to the base of Waterslide. Head left for the climbs.
31 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Crescent Crack Buttress:
Crescent Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Lazarus 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Hand Jive 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Crescent Crack Direct Variation 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Crack in the Woods 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Final Link 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 120'
Paraplegic Ward 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a A0 Trad, TR, Aid, 1 pitch, 80'
3 Amigos 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Mexican Crack 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Lunge or Plunge 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Missing Link 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R Trad, 3 pitches
Multiplicity 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Who's On First 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Ross Route, The 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Grunting Gringos 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Closet Lycra 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Rotert's Rooter 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
If Looks Could Kill 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a R Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
No Jive Arete 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Crescent Crack Buttress
Final Link 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Crescent Crack Buttress
Stem up through the spike from the Crescent Crack Direct variation and clip first bolt. The crux here is to not pull on the draw and do the cool mantle onto the slab. Clip next bolt then set up belay at the two bolts. Beautiful slab that wanders a bit left and right. runners could be helpful on a few of the bolts to reduce rope drag. If done as the finish to Crescent Crack this route has it all....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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