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Creekafixion 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: P1 Equiped by D. Montgomery, FA, D. Montgomery & S. Benedict, 8-28-10, P2 Equiped & FA by Eric Schmeer and Bruno Haché
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,980
Submitted By: Monty on Aug 28, 2010

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Tip-toeing over the wild Creekafixion on the FA.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sooo, you know that route Rosy Crucifixion.... Well, the CCC has got its own version now!

This is one of the most unique pitches I've climbed in CCC, guaranteed to put a smile on your face.

Link the first 2 pitches of Solid Gold to the large belay ledge.

Climb 50 feet of the 3rd pitch of SG. Bust right to start up Playin' Hooky. Belay on the ledge with the intermediate rap station in the middle of the PH slab.


Creekafixion P1 5.11, 80 feet. The Money Pitch! Start from the rap station in the middle of the PH slab. Climb up the slab for 4-5 bolts then angle up and left to 2 bolts leading up to the giant roof on the left side of the slab. Stem the dihederal and begin tip-toeing out over the massive roof. A sequence of underclings, crimps and tenuous smearing past 3 more bolts will deposit you at a 2 bolt belay. Wild!

  • DON'T use a Guide or Reverso in auto-block mode. If your second falls, you will have a very hard time unlocking the device.

From here, you can either rap back to the midway belay on Playin' Hooky, or top out via two different 5.11 options.

It is possible to link both pitches but not recomended since you will not be able to hear or see your partner during the crux traverse.

P2 5.11-, 60 feet. The original finish was to step right off the belay, mantle on to a sloping ledge, and follow a crumbly corner feature to the top, but with the recent addition of Golden Hammer, you now can take that routes fourth pitch to the top for a much more classic finish in the 11+ range.

Descent: Several rap options exist. The best option is from the anchor on top of Spun Gold to the Playin' Hooky anchor in the middle of the slab, then down Solid gold from there. Or top out completely and walk over to the Solid Gold raps, or 4th class scramble down to the raps for Playin' Hooky.


Location 

Top right side of Creekside. In between Spun Gold and Playin' Hooky.


Protection 

Bolts. 10 draws and 2 runners should do.



Photos of Creekafixion Slideshow Add Photo
Sam following the wild traverse on the FA.
Sam following the wild traverse on the FA.
The view of Creekafixion as seen from Playin' Hooky.
The view of Creekafixion as seen from Playin' Hook...
Comments on Creekafixion Add Comment
Show which comments
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Sep 1, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Soooo good. A CCC must do. Funny how similar it actually is in exposure and moves to its namesake in Eldo!

By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 1, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

What an awesome route. A classic of exposure.

By Marco Berry
Sep 23, 2011

Are you supposed to pull the roof on this route or are you supposed to traverse over the roof? I have seen some pics with the route mapped out over the roof, but descriptions say to pull the roof. What is it?!

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Sep 25, 2011

For Creekafixion, you tip toe traverse over the roof following the bolts. You might be confusing Creekafixion with the route to the left that pulls a roof. It will all become very obvious once you are up there.
Cheers

By L Stern
From: Golden, CO
Apr 30, 2013

Fantastic position! You're a couple hundred feet above Clear Creek tip-toeing on the lip of a very large roof. I thought the bolts were well placed, and so I never felt scared (which I usually do on hard traverses).

I'd recommed bringing a couple of shoulder length slings for the slab to minimize rope drag. Also, there's a large, loose boulder at the very top of the slab that's right in the climbing line. If you're not careful, you could pull this mini-fridge sized block right onto yourself or an unfortunate driver below.