Mountain Project Logo

Creek Anchors

Original Post
Sam Feuerborn · · Carbondale · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 810

Hey guys,

Now that the season is upon us I'm just looking to compile a list of Creek routes that could use an anchor update.

If you would be so kind as to dredge up memories of what routes might need some attention and what kind of hardware they need that would be rad!

Thanks,
Sam

Rob Dillon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 760

Blockhead @ Public Service. Hong bolt , old nuts.

Danny M · · CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 125

Unknown 5.10 left of Idaho Flake @ 2nd Meat Wall. I think it's currently got a pin, a nut and some tat as an anchor. I have some time in April and would be psyched to help with out with anchor replacement.

Thanks!

Jeremy K · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

Mantel Illness @ Scarface.

Shep · · Grand Junction, Colorado · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

Slice and Dice on Way Rambo is not terrible. But it is a relatively popular route so it could stand some improvement in the near future. I havent done much anchor replacing but I spend a lot of time in IC and would love to help contribute if possible!

Sam Feuerborn · · Carbondale · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 810

Sweet thanks guys! Shep if you see a stickered gold previa out there swing on by!

Rob Cooper · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

The anchors on Big Guy on Scarface were spinning big time last I was up there.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Sam Feuerborn wrote:Hey guys, Now that the season is upon us I'm just looking to compile a list of Creek routes that could use an anchor update. If you would be so kind as to dredge up memories of what routes might need some attention and what kind of hardware they need that would be rad! Thanks, Sam
1st pitch anchor at the top of "unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools" on Reservoir wall is a drilled angle and an old nut with a bunch of tat.
Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391
kennoyce wrote: 1st pitch anchor at the top of "unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools" on Reservoir wall is a drilled angle and an old nut with a bunch of tat.
Glad to see that stuck out in your mind as much as it did mine!

Jive Crack ( mountainproject.com/v/jive-…) on Optimator is a one bolt and one drilled piton anchor.
Shep · · Grand Junction, Colorado · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

Will do. Sam, where are you usually posted up out there? Shoot me a PM if you need hardware and I would love to contribute!

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

The anchors for Rowdy are shared with the unknown OW on the right. It could really use its own set (and maybe a couple of those nice loose death blocks tossed off). The anchors for the unknown OW are one good chain anchor and tat with a biner.

The anchors for Marshmallow Safari are two pretty good bolts with a whole nest of tat. Could use a couple quicklinks and they'd probably be good.

j w · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 8

Samurai Loving has a homemade bent aluminum hanger and an old thin Leeper hanger.

Sam Feuerborn · · Carbondale · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 810

Thanks guys! If you're wanting to contribute, consider donating to the ASCA, they're super awesome folks and have helped out a ton with hardware!

Always looking to hear about more routes that need lovin!

Sam

Wally · · Denver · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Sam - Cowch Potato at Sacred Cow and the first pitch anchors of Overlook at Reservoir had decent looking bolts but old webbing and biners.

Thank you for your work! Wally

Kevin Kent · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,526

The route Sacred Cow definitely would be a good candidate. It currently has a Hong bolt and one not that great looking other bolt equalized with tat and 4 biners.

Also Bon Voyage at Sabbatical wall really needs chain at the least but a new bolt would go a long ways. It currently has and old bolt and a drilled angle.

BackAtItAgain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 15

Sesh One Cooking at 2nd Meat has a drilled angle and a bandito aluminum hanger. Also - The Switch on the right side of the 2nd Meat could use a new bolt.

Dave Stimson · · Pincher Creek · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 203

My recollection from last fall is that the higher Dos Hermanos anchor was pretty uninspiring. Looks like many attempts have been had up there to replace them. Any thoughts about moving to glue-ins?

Dustin B · · Steamboat · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,275

Aye, the dos hermanos anchors seem to get hammered. They get sloppy, someone fixes em, they get sloppy again. Super good route that gets climbed a ton. If they don't get done this spring I'll hit em up this fall.

No experience with glue-ins in the desert, only on limestone/gneiss, so I can't comment if that will fix the problem or not. Perhaps the problem is occurring from TR'ing the thing with the redirect through the lower anchors combined with softer stone (?).

Also, please space the bolts to the proper specification if not already done so at anchors you may be working on. I've come across a numerous routes out there where the bolts are literally 4 or 5 inches apart...not fun.

Nathan Scherneck · · Portland, OR · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 2,370

The "Unnamed 5.10" warmup (right facing corner, about 115' in length) at Cat Wall. It's way popular and has nasty tat strung on two drilled pins, IIRC.

mountainproject.com/v/unnam…

liamo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

Jolly rancher- pistol whipped wall

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

As of about 3 weeks ago, the lower of the two rap bolts on the "main" (Southwest? The one everyone goes to first, with the bolt above the mantle) summit of South Sixshooter is a little loose in its hole. I didn't try to pull it out. I'm sorry to say that I don't know enough about bolts to know whether it just needs to be tightened or whether it needs to be re-drilled. I did note that the hanger had ground its way into the rock about 1/8".

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
Post a Reply to "Creek Anchors"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.