I did the center variation. Delicate start over bulge into crack. Follow fantastic slightly larger than finger crack up to bolt. Clip the bolt and choose your own adventure. I've heard the left variation might be slightly easier, but don't quote me on that! Regardless, this is an amazing route, great gear & hard climbing. Continue upwards, eventually traversing right.
This route is on the east face of Goosehead (i.e. the longer side). To get here either scramble down the death-gully or rap down easily accesible anchors. To find these, walk to back of goose's head, look left and walk under a tree to a flat area. Looking out across the gully through rocks and you should see Knight's wall. The chains are just up and to your right. The route you're rapping down is Chun King Corner and Glide Path slightly to the left.
I brought a double rack of camalots up to #2 and plugged at least one of each size. Long runners might help depending on variation. I used the rap bolts as the anchor and clipped a directional bolt for the belay.
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 28, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
This is an excellent route. When climbing the center variation, we used stoppers, doubles to #2 Camalot, and one #3 Camalot. Superb climbing on great rock.
|By Dj telle|
From: Tucson, Arizona
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I really enjoyed this route. Fun technical cracks and awesome moves. Def one of my fav trad lines on lemmon. bolt not needed...