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Andy Bennett on the beginning of Credibility Gap -...
ACCESS ALERT (3/20/12): ATTENTION CLIMBERS - ROUTE CLOSURE! Due to nesting Peregrine Falcons, the section of the Trapps Cliff between and including the routes Credibility Gap (5.6) and Bitchy Virgin (5.6) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. Do not use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area. Do not use the section of the cliff base climber's trail between these routes. Please refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of the this closure. Thanks to the climbing community for your help in protecting the Peregrines! -- Mohonk Preserve.
Credibility Gap is a fun 5.6 just the the left of Asphodel's huge right-facing corner. The route begins right at the base of the corner.
Pitch 1 is a good introduction to 5.6 for a solid 5.5 leader. The crux moves are exciting and exposed, but the holds are all big, and the moves well protected. The route is better than it looks from the ground.
P1: Climb the crack in the slick but slabby left face of the corner. From the top, diagonal up and left on easy rock to an obvious, low-angle right facing corner. You can belay here, but I found no need to. Climb the corner to the roof, then make an airy exit left onto the face. Go straight up the steep face to the ledge with a couple pine trees (this is also the belay for Welcome to the Gunks. 5.6 G/PG, ~90 feet.
P2: Straight up to the largest overhang about 30 feet up, step left and climb up the face to a small flaky left-facing corner, step back right and go up to a pine tree on the GT ledge. 5.5 PG, 60 feet.
Descent: it is possible to rappel the route with one rope; however, two ropes are recommended. From the GT ledge, one rappel gets you back to the first belay at the top of Welcome to the Gunks. The best bet is to rap on two ropes to the ground from here, or a second rappel on one rope takes you too a fairly sketchy anchor under a roof, where you can make a third rap to the ground.
About an 8-min walk down the carriage road from the Uberfall; after the Mac Wall, but before Beginner's Delight. The trail for Welcome to the Gunks provides the quickest access.
The Williams guide gives P1 a PG rating; however, I felt the pitch was G. The crux protects well with a larger cam (3.5 Friend). There are some short runouts, but only on very easy rock. Other than the large cam, a standard Gunks rack is fine.
The start of Credibility Gap. I got off route by c...
BETA PHOTO: Just before the crux move. I got three cams - a go...
|Comments on Credibility Gap
From: New York, NY
Oct 28, 2008
P1 is the worth doing, don't remember P2 much other than some dirty rocks. My follower backed off twice on the P1's airy exit. Definitely interesting, bring a big cam. I don't remember which one I used, maybe BD #4?
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 28, 2009
P1 is great. It looks very improbable from the ground, but, the holds reveal themselves as you ascend. It's a great, exciting climb with a great move under the roof.
P2 is fun, nice and mellow.
|By J Antin|
From: Denver, CO
Nov 3, 2009
BETA:>>> A semi-tricky #3 C4 protects the 'airy-exit' move well!
Aug 9, 2010
Asphodel, the climb right next to it, is way better IMO. While I had a #3 with me to protect the exit, you can also place a smaller cam closer to the nose of the traverse.
Rappel: 2 60M will get you all the way to the ground, just make sure to throw ropes skier's right (or they will get tangled in the pine tree on P1 belay).
|By Tyrel Fuller|
From: Denver, CO
Nov 28, 2011
A 70m rope can place you on the ground in one rappel from pitch 1
|By Galen Rahmlow|
Apr 30, 2012
The exit move is one of my favorite moves in all of the gunks right now. It was awesome! Just got to remember it's only 5.6!