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e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
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Birdie Party T 
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Something Boring T 
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Star Action T 
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Tequila Mockingbird T 
Three Pines T 
Tough Shift T 
Try Again T 
Welcome to the Gunks T 

Credibility Gap 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Joe Kelsey, Dick Williams 1968
Page Views: 3,306
Submitted By: adrenalated on Apr 23, 2007

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Gail protecting the exciting exit from under the r...

Description 

ACCESS ALERT (3/20/12): ATTENTION CLIMBERS - ROUTE CLOSURE! Due to nesting Peregrine Falcons, the section of the Trapps Cliff between and including the routes Credibility Gap (5.6) and Bitchy Virgin (5.6) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. Do not use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area. Do not use the section of the cliff base climber's trail between these routes. Please refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of the this closure. Thanks to the climbing community for your help in protecting the Peregrines! -- Mohonk Preserve.

Credibility Gap is a fun 5.6 just the the left of Asphodel's huge right-facing corner. The route begins right at the base of the corner.

Pitch 1 is a good introduction to 5.6 for a solid 5.5 leader. The crux moves are exciting and exposed, but the holds are all big, and the moves well protected. The route is better than it looks from the ground.

P1: Climb the crack in the slick but slabby left face of the corner. From the top, diagonal up and left on easy rock to an obvious, low-angle right facing corner. You can belay here, but I found no need to. Climb the corner to the roof, then make an airy exit left onto the face. Go straight up the steep face to the ledge with a couple pine trees (this is also the belay for Welcome to the Gunks. 5.6 G/PG, ~90 feet.

P2: Straight up to the largest overhang about 30 feet up, step left and climb up the face to a small flaky left-facing corner, step back right and go up to a pine tree on the GT ledge. 5.5 PG, 60 feet.

Descent: it is possible to rappel the route with one rope; however, two ropes are recommended. From the GT ledge, one rappel gets you back to the first belay at the top of Welcome to the Gunks. The best bet is to rap on two ropes to the ground from here, or a second rappel on one rope takes you too a fairly sketchy anchor under a roof, where you can make a third rap to the ground.


Location 

About an 8-min walk down the carriage road from the Uberfall; after the Mac Wall, but before Beginner's Delight. The trail for Welcome to the Gunks provides the quickest access.


Protection 

The Williams guide gives P1 a PG rating; however, I felt the pitch was G. The crux protects well with a larger cam (3.5 Friend). There are some short runouts, but only on very easy rock. Other than the large cam, a standard Gunks rack is fine.



Photos of Credibility Gap Slideshow Add Photo
Andy Bennett on the beginning of Credibility Gap - which goes up and left and out the crack in the roof in the upper left - exciting but well protected rail.
Andy Bennett on the beginning of Credibility Gap -...
The start of Credibility Gap. I got off route by climbing straight up (instead of ramping left) from the next ledge into 5.8 land, which wasn't altogether a bad place to be.
The start of Credibility Gap. I got off route by c...
The start of Credibility Gap is the crack on the wall to the left of the sleeping belayer (who's on Asphodel).
BETA PHOTO: The start of Credibility Gap is the crack on the w...
Just before the crux move. I got three cams - a good #0.75 C4 closer to the nose and a so-so #3 C4 backed up with a good #0.5 Trango Maxcam (I think it is similar to #0.5 C4). The move is scary to commit, but actually not hard at all. The holds are all over, even more than you need.
BETA PHOTO: Just before the crux move. I got three cams - a go...
Comments on Credibility Gap Add Comment
Show which comments
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Oct 28, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

P1 is the worth doing, don't remember P2 much other than some dirty rocks. My follower backed off twice on the P1's airy exit. Definitely interesting, bring a big cam. I don't remember which one I used, maybe BD #4?

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 28, 2009

P1 is great. It looks very improbable from the ground, but, the holds reveal themselves as you ascend. It's a great, exciting climb with a great move under the roof.

P2 is fun, nice and mellow.

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Nov 3, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

BETA:>>> A semi-tricky #3 C4 protects the 'airy-exit' move well!

Fun climb!

By doligo
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Asphodel, the climb right next to it, is way better IMO. While I had a #3 with me to protect the exit, you can also place a smaller cam closer to the nose of the traverse.

Rappel: 2 60M will get you all the way to the ground, just make sure to throw ropes skier's right (or they will get tangled in the pine tree on P1 belay).

By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
Nov 28, 2011

A 70m rope can place you on the ground in one rappel from pitch 1

By Galen Rahmlow
From: Weehawken
Apr 30, 2012

The exit move is one of my favorite moves in all of the gunks right now. It was awesome! Just got to remember it's only 5.6!

By Kurtz
May 20, 2013

Loved the big P1 move. Great holds so just go for it. Two 60m ropes got us down from the top, but it was really hard to pull the ropes. Not sure where all the drag came from.

By kenr
Jun 3, 2014

There is a very secure cam placement out near the edge of the crux roof on P1 -- but consider that removing that piece might be rather strenuous and intimidating for your follower -- and they might then lose their appetite for actually for actually performing the crux moves.
So I'd recommend taking some thought about which piece and how to place it -- and some explicit communication with follower about how they should remove it.