A novelty route mostly, traverse along a flaring crack about 4ft above the "black lagoon" for maybe 50 ft, and then head up a 40ft 5.9 hand crack. I've tried traversing with feet in the crack and doing the tipsy shuffle, or traversing with hands in the crack. It felt very different but about the same difficulty either way.
See the awesome updated (4th ed.) Reid/Falkenstein guide for more info.
The wall above the lagoon seen immediately upon entering Olmstead canyon.
A fall at the crux will almost certainly result in falling in the lake, so I would suggest either toproping from above with a moving belay, or soloing, since the crux is only 4 ft. above the lake. A fall into the lake would be embarrassing though, and you would hit the bottom as it is less than 6ft deep.
|By c scott|
Feb 16, 2010
This climb would be a sweet solo/bouldering problem. The water is shallow, but not too shallow. Also I don't remember any mean looking rocks lurking about. I can't wait to come back on a warm day and give it another go, sans rope!
|By Brian Treanor|
Oct 15, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
This "climb" is, in fact, a boulder problem. That's how it was established and how it's traditionally been climbed, unless I'm mistaken.
10c belies the touch and go nature of the traverse. I went high, with feet in the flared crack, and there are some real tenuous bits for the grade. I know of a few solid climbers who have taken the plunge...
|By Brad G|
From: Yosemite and else where
Jun 10, 2013
My shoes are now dry and my chalk bag is getting there.
|By Kaleem Khwaja|
From: Emeryville, California
Jul 28, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Traversing with feet in the crack felt legit 5.10, but the lower hand-in-crack variation was WAY more difficult - maybe 11c?. I personally couldn't keep my feet out of the lagoon while staying low enough to keep from greasing out of the sloper horizontal crack.
We tested the bottom of the lagoon under the finish and it was soft, silty and almost 6 feet deep. The hand crack finish felt only about 5.8 and should be uneventful for anyone who can get to it. A great end to a weekend in the Meadows!