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Routes in Ay. Cream
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Cream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Energy Crisis T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jam Session T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Mark Klemens (Aug '71) |
| Page Views: | 3,156 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on May 30, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Cream is a great offwidth pitch that ranks among the Valley's most classic splitters. Imagine Chingando, but 20 degrees steeper. It's also probably among the easiest of the 5.11 wide cracks if you are looking to break into the grade.
This will be the first obvious climb you come to as you traverse the base of the cliff from the "Eastern Square Cleft" approach gully. It is on the steep right-hand face of a large open book. Blocky 5th class climbing leads to a stance at the bottom of the splitter. The crux comes at you pretty quick on a section that is gently overhanging. Higher up you will pass a small roof and the angle lessens. Conserve your gear because the climb is longer than it looks. I found the route fairly secure but burly and sustained the whole way, with almost no climbing easier than 5.9. Also consider bringing extra webbing for the anchor. The bolts are new but the webbing connecting the rap rings could use replacing. There's a chance a 70m rope might get you down, but I'm not sure.
This will be the first obvious climb you come to as you traverse the base of the cliff from the "Eastern Square Cleft" approach gully. It is on the steep right-hand face of a large open book. Blocky 5th class climbing leads to a stance at the bottom of the splitter. The crux comes at you pretty quick on a section that is gently overhanging. Higher up you will pass a small roof and the angle lessens. Conserve your gear because the climb is longer than it looks. I found the route fairly secure but burly and sustained the whole way, with almost no climbing easier than 5.9. Also consider bringing extra webbing for the anchor. The bolts are new but the webbing connecting the rap rings could use replacing. There's a chance a 70m rope might get you down, but I'm not sure.
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