|The Bastille - W Face
This seldom-climbed route is actually real good. Step out left from the chimney quite high on the top pitch of Blind Faith, and pass a couple angling scooped edges (Alien in flake above) to the arete. Here boldly layback to easy ground. Don't blow the layback. Up a short face above, move left, (watch for rope-drag problems) then finally mantle inelegantly onto a very exposed "diving-board" block. Technically moderate for Eldo 5.10b, but somewhat committing.
A regular Eldo rack will suffice, a few wires, and Aliens, and a handful of shoulder length slings
BETA PHOTO: The spire-licous exposed throne of the Bastille, s...
Lyn following the upper part of Cream, with the Ed...
BETA PHOTO: Lower half of route: Cream
2'x 2'x 3" scary flake
Tom Englebach, 2007
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 10, 2002
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Boy, if I climbed where you did, that is ballsy use of a TCU/Alien behind a flake... looked pretty bad to me.
I placed gear in the crack in the chimney, a large bomber stopper & bomber Camalot an a long sling, and then headed left. The first stem would have been hard for a short person. Then up and left on runout terrian. I got nothing good in for quite a ways (severe fall potential) and then got several bomber pieces once near or on the pinnacle. This gear was 1 ea. red & brown tricam + a few large Camalots in the back of huecos + I threaded a few needle-eyes. Of course, they were creative placememnts, but they were good gear.
I'd only rate this pitch 1-star. It will improve with traffic.
|By Joshua Merriam|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
I stepped over onto the face at the lowest place I could. Definitely not an option for those who are altitudinally challenged.
That first, downward-facing flake flexed the full range on a BD 0.75 when I placed one behind it. Spooky. So, I took it back out and my first gear was a slung horn a bit higher. (Bad fall potential beforehand). The rest was fun and better protected. I placed a BD 0.5, a medium nut, looped a keyhole, and slung the top horn (for TR protecting my second).
Interesting moves down low, cool holds up high, great position. But overall quality is average. [IMHO that flake should be trundled]