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Crazy Horse T 
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Crazy Horse 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Levin & Kevin Bein, 1980
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Dec 15, 2013

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Description 

Climb the wide crack with difficulty. Where it ends move up and right on thin crystals to a bolt. Continue up to a second bolt and make a few thin (5.9 ?) moves to easier ground.

This was led ground-up and onsight. I spent a long time trying to avoid placing the second bolt, using RPs for pro instead, climbing up and down, but finally opted to drill and promptly broke the drill bit. Kevin tied me off to the railing and ran back to the car, returning a while later with another bit.

Location 

The overhanging wide crack just off the trail on the left, about 150 feet downhill from the dam.

Protection 

Wide stuff for the crack. Two bolts for the face.


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By aschwartz
From: Spearfish,SD
Dec 16, 2013

bolts replaced summer 2013, cool story about the drill bit breaking!
By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Dec 17, 2013

Steve that route looks awesome. Is the offwidth the crux?