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95 Degrees in the Shade S 
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Bait and Switch S 
Boots On The Ground S 
Crazy Horse S 
Dedo Grande S 
Fly Away Roof S 
Lucky Stars S 
Mind Bender S 
Miss Brown T,S 
Mission George S 
More Funky than Monkey S 
Pony Express S 
Power Pod S 
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Schadenfreude S 
Soy Chango S 
Tikki Man S 
Up Stream S 
White Arete S 

Crazy Horse 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Worrall, et all
Page Views: 212
Submitted By: SCherry on Feb 21, 2013

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Description 

Classic first pitch roof traverse, follows a crack underneath a large 30 foot roof. Steep and fun!

Begins at a set of anchors in a small alcove below the big obvious roof. There are 4 sets of bottom anchors in this section of the wall. The anchors for "Crazy Horse" and "95 Degrees" are the second from the left.

Pitch 1 (12a):Climb up off the belay heading towards the left end of the roof. The first few bolts are shared with "95 Degrees in the Sun" and "95 Degrees in the Shade". The climbing quickly turns from vertical face to steep and big holds. Solve the crux to get into the start of the crack holds below the roof and then manage the pump and exposure as you traverse under the roof for 30 feet on big moves between good holds to a hanging belay just above the terminus of the roof.

You can lower-off from here and climb this as a single pitch, but its difficult for the second with the traversing nature of the climbing.

Pitch 2 (11c or d): Climb up off the belay, slightly left, heading for the bulge crux of "Pony Express". You only clip 2 bolts before you join that line at its crux. Pull the bulge and get a quick shake before moving right into a right facing corner-crack. Follow the crack to its end and move left to a 2-bolt hanging belay.

Pitch 3 (11a): This is one of the best single pitches I've done! Amazing rock, cool holds, and an amazing feature with unreal exposure...so fun!

Move up off the belay into a shallow corner on positive but small holds. A few moves of stemming, turns into face climbing on immaculate white stone. You are gunning for an obvious white arete of rock about 40 feet above the belay. Once you hit the arete you'll be into some of the dreamiest climbing ever as you surmount the exposed arete on amazing rounded jugs with over 400 feet of air under your feet!


Location 

Begins at a set of anchors in a small alcove below the big obvious roof. There are 4 sets of bottom anchors in this section of the wall. The anchors for "Crazy Horse" and "95 Degrees" are the second from the left.


Protection 

16 quickdraws. Bolted anchors.



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