Crazy Horse Buttress
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|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 26, 2009|
BETA PHOTO: The Crazy Horse Buttress rises 50 meters out of th...
|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
This is the premier and most popular crag in the area. Perhaps being the namesake of the entire area, the first area climbed, being so close to the parking (2 minutes) or having the greatest number of pitches (50+ if you count the adjoining 'Archway.'
For whatever reason, this is the place to go if you want to run into other climbers. Still, due to the overall small number of folks climbing in Chaing Mai, you can be sure that there will be open routes there.
From a fist full of french grade 5's, which may have guides and clients on them) to a large number of 6's (5.10-11c) and a few 7's (5.11+ to 5.12) and a sole 8a (5.13) for the .nu scorecard type there are routes for almost anyone.
This primarily south facing crag will likely remind the well-traveled Asia climber of the climbing at Batu Caves (K.L. Malaysia), and to some degree of Railee/Tonsai. The walls are a little bit shorter, the tufas smaller, and the crowds non existent however. While the weather is not quite as oppressively hot as places like Bangkok and K.L., as it is moderated by a slightly more northern latitude and slight altitude, it lacks the cooling effect of a nearby ocean that so benefits the southern coastal climbing.... and this wall faces primarily south.
Crazy Horse buttress is really more or less the same formation as the adjoining wall, The Archway, but can be distinguished as different by the approach and the Character of the climbing, and as such, they will be listed separately here.
The rock is limestone karst and is primarily compact and hard lime, sharp in places and for the most part positive. Naturally however, the existing slopers are glassy and polished on the more popular lines. These get more difficult when in the sun, but the area's slightly sot given grades make them reasonable ticks even in challenging conditions.
From left to right on the West Face, starting from the far left edge (left of the arriving trail) the climbs are:
1) The Muppet Show (5.8)
2) Ding Dong (5.8)
3) Rope and Rock (5.7)
4) Mai Roo Reuang (10c)
5) Magic Drop (10c, shares start with #6)
6) Reindeer Request (10b, shares start with #5)
7) Some Like It Hot (10c, a girdle route which shares start with 2 previous routes)
8) Ahah! (10a)
9) Bamboo Finders (10c)
10) The Beehouse (11c)
11) Blood Love and Steel (11a)
12) An open project estimated in the 8B+ range.
This is it for the South Face of the wall from the base, but there are significant additional pitches that can be reached from the tops of the pitches listed. The following are on the right side, on the West Face, which gets morning shade. This includes everything right of the rebar ladder.
13) Dangerous Joy (10d)
14) The Horse Knows the Way (12b)
15) The Horses Ass (12a, shares start with #16)
16) Dont Look a Gift Horse In the Mouth (11d, 2 pithces, shares start of P1 with #15)
17) Into the Sun (10b, two pitches, crux on upper pitch)
Again, a smattering of additional pitches and routes is accessible from the tops of these listed climbs.
From the top parking lot of the dirt road into the Crazy Horse area, park and turn facing uphill. The large buttress you see is Crazy Horse. The restrooms are back and to your left. Head up and left to a trail past the water kiosks where there is likely to be drinking water but don't bet your day on it.(Please read the posted information about this project.)
Head up the well marked trail a few minutes past some rails and platforms on the trail for a few minutes to arrive at the left edge of the crag.
Weather station 13.3 miles from here
25 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Browse More Classics in Crazy Horse Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Crazy Horse Buttress:
Ahya! 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Featured Route For Crazy Horse Buttress
Blood, Love and Steel 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Asia
: ... : Crazy Horse Buttress
A 3 star spectacular mega classic! A balancey first section for 4 bolts leads to a thread and a rest. The next section comprises of a super thin crux. Shoot for the big jug, it's as positive as you're hoping it is. The lankier can make it in a single dynamic move. The more vertically challenged climbers will need to find a intermediate foot hold to get the reach. People have been known to claim there is a micro-nubbin for the foot but really it's a case of just picking a section of rock and imag...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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