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Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)
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Crack, The T,TR 
Crazy Crack T,TR 
Guillotine, The TR 
Kanaranzi Right TR 
Purgatory T,TR 
Stairway to Heaven TR 
Stairway To Hell TR 

Crazy Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,172
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Jun 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Crazy crack, partially shaded on a hot June day.


A fun route on either lead or top rope. Follow the crack up, traverse left at a small roof/ledge, and continue to the top. The climb tops out at a small ledge 3 feet below the true top. This is a great place to sit while you belay your second.

  • RCM&W #31, p.39.


This is the furthest left crack on this face.

Descent/TR setup: via the third class chimney on Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face).


Nuts, hexes, cams, tri-cams. I didn't use anything bigger than hand/fist sized. Standard top rope setup

Photos of Crazy Crack Slideshow Add Photo
John Peterson leading.
John Peterson leading.

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By Tyson S Arp
Feb 16, 2007

Definitely one of the more protectable climbs in the area. Makes a good lead.
By Jeff J.
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Oct 23, 2011

Leading up straight over the small roof and then traversing left is a great alternate ending and is a bit harder
By Pete Hunt
Jan 6, 2012

Multiple 2" to 3" cams very helpful on lead.
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