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 ADVANCED
Zoo Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Flush, The TR 
Body Suit T 
Closed Heimer T 
Conflict In Terms T,TR 
Crazy Alice T 
Critical Mass T,TR 
Dihedral, The T,TR 
Dr. Coolhead T,TR 
Extended Altar Call T 
Fantasy Roof T,TR 
Flying Nun Variation T 
Flying Nun, The T 
Knuckle Sandwich T 
Larin Has Balls T 
Leap Frog T,TR 
Little Roof (aka Small Roof) T 
Masters of Reality T 
McBride's Mind T 
No Stone Unturned T,TR 
Resurrection Factor T 
Richard Pryor Route T 
Scrotum Roof T,TR 
Shake and Bake T 
Side Saddle T,TR 
Slap Roof T 
Sloth T 
Squeeze Play T,TR 
Straight Face TR 
Sundown Dihedral T,TR 
Sweet Jesus T,TR 
Time the Avenger TR 
Too Much Fun T 
Triple Decker T 
Unfinished Piece, The T,TR 
Yellow Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

Crazy Alice 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Panciera, 1975
Page Views: 3,761
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Sep 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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Andrew on an Oklahoma classic.
Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The best 5.8 in the park, if not the entire state. Follow the zig zagging crack up the face. Great jams will have you wanting more. Crux is not very clear, about 25-30 feet up the crack breaks up some and the feet aren't as good, the high section has some awkward jams. Balance can be hard since you always seem to be leaning one way or the other.


Location 

Center of the main wall, the most obvious and consistent route in the narrows.


Protection 

Great gear, the last time I was on, it ate all 8 of my Rock Empires. Just fire in the gear and move. Chain anchors.


Testpiece 

This route deserves the MEGA CLASSIC rating, because it features sustained climbing for a full 50-60 feet, requiring a variety of techniques to send. I would suggest that if you can send Crazy Alice, you will have no trouble with any other 5.8 in the refuge. I always reguarded it as the areas testpiece.



Photos of Crazy Alice Slideshow Add Photo
crazy alice <br />Photo by Jace Johnson
crazy alice
Photo by Jace Johnson
Crazy Alice climbs the zig-zag cracks to the right of the black water streak.  The Dihedral is on the left.
Crazy Alice climbs the zig-zag cracks to the right...
"Crazy Alice," March 2010
"Crazy Alice," March 2010
"Crazy Alice" November 2013
"Crazy Alice" November 2013
crazy alice <br />Photo by Jace Johnson
BETA PHOTO: crazy alice
Photo by Jace Johnson
Comments on Crazy Alice Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Aug 6, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Totally classic, my first real trad lead. Excellent for an intro to trad climbing or on a breezy day.

By John Calder
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 6, 2007

Great route. Watch out for bats in the crack up high. I've almost touched em on a few jams before.

By steven charles
Dec 19, 2008

definitely a great climb, i'd put mr. clean on lower scott as my favorite 5.8 in the wichitas, if you visit the tas and are intersted in moderate trad, i'd say both are must do's.

By Brent Butcher
Nov 18, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This crack used all my BD .75's and 1's. Bring 2 of each.