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Crawford's Corner T 

Crawford's Corner 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Crawford, Smith- circa mid-1980s
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: John Wilder on Oct 9, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Not the greatest photo but its looking up at the s...

Description 

Just above the Necromancer crag is an obvious orange wall with a striking corner on the right hand side- This is the route. A dirty pitch up the brushy gully leads to the base of the main crack, then a long pitch leads to a ledge far up the corner.

Location 

Just above Necromancer.

Protection 

Good selection to 5", heavy in the thin hands to fists.


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By Cultivating Mass
Nov 3, 2011

I'm not sure why the comments about the incident on this route were removed, but to the best of my memory, a couple of locals had a huge pillar nearly wipe them out on this thing, ropes destroyed, major rockfall, the whole deal. Anyone who's checking this thing out should bring some bail slings JIC and be ready to trundle some gravel off of the route as they go. Looks like a great 2nd pitch from afar-if anyone knocks out the route and has more up-to-date info, especially about the condition of the rap anchors, post up so I know to bring up hardware for replacement if it's needed.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 4, 2011

That is odd that those comments were removed. I was the one that triggered the rockfall- it was definitely epic and we got lucky. Given the condition of the rap station at the top of 1, I'd take some tat and maybe even a hand drill kit for the top of 2.

That said, given the condition of the rock up there, I can't say I'd recommend the route- what I knocked off wasn't the only sketch looking thing up there...
By Cultivating Mass
Nov 4, 2011

That is pretty weird. I figured you pulled it for some reason. What do you remember about the anchors on top of P1 and P2? Was there any bolting done on the FA or is it a way-sketchy 20 year old webbing mess w/RP and a knot kinda deal?
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 4, 2011

Nope- not me. I remember the top of P1 had a nut and something else for the anchor, we rapped off it and I remember it being not that awesome in not that awesome rock. Never got to the top of P2- the rockfall happened as I started up it, shredding both my ropes and getting down safely became the primary concern.
By Cultivating Mass
Nov 4, 2011

I talked to Crawford last spring a couple of times-funny guy, basically told me I HAD to do that thing, that it really is THAT good. Looks amazing from a distance, kind of off the beaten track, I think that adds to the appeal. It's for sure the most popular route up there, and it sounds like no one's been on it since the huge rockfall. I've got a lot of ASCA stuff I'm juggling, but I'm jonesing to get on this sucker and give it a shot. I just remember my one time up there thinking that there had to be a quick way up there, and half a day of epic scrub hell later, I was back at the car thinking how nice it would be to do the Hop route (again). I'll post up once I've done this thing, I'm gonna wear two helmets for it.
By smassey
From: CO
Nov 14, 2011

Was that as civil as it looked? I think history has been made...
By Cultivating Mass
Nov 16, 2011

You said it. I swear I'm getting soft in my old age-either that, or I've been sitting under the mistletoe...

Romance is in the air..
Romance is in the air..
By Jonathan K
Oct 5, 2012

Beautiful climb I'd say its hard for the grade but I'm no expert and would have given it 4 stars if less bushes wer involved on the first pitch.
By Rob Fielding
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 22, 2013

2 1/2" SS ASCA bolts w/ links were installed on the top of the second pitch.

This route is adventurous and the rock quality is questionable at times on the 2nd pitch... Use caution! I believe the story was erased on here, but a couple local climbers had some serious rockfall w/ a cut rope.


1st pitch: This was the most obvious line to get to the base of the climb w/ the least amount of crunchy rock. We tried to make it a lil less bushy, but it's still bushy. Climb 4th class shenanigans until you reach a ledge to belay on. Continue up the path of least resistance until you encounter a small roof crack which takes 2 c4#3's and eventually a c4#4. Continue up the arete (slightly runout) until you reach a small left facing dihedral for finger size gear (crux @ 10a). From here, avoid the slings to your right w/ two nuts/blue webbing and continue up towards the large pine tree which you can belay at.

2nd pitch: Continue up the crack and hand jam for days. The rock quality is questionable at times... The crux comes at the end and is technical using a combination of liebacking/stemming/faceclimbing.

Gear recommendations: Single rack to 4", 2 extra .75's, 2 extra #1's, 3 extra #2's, 2 extra #3's. Optional #5 below the tree.

Rappel down and slightly right towards the fixed nuts which seemed alright.