Easy camping with climbing right there by the truc...
Crawdad Canyon is a great place to climb if you want to climb as many routes as you can in a day. The canyon runs East/West so there's always a route or two in the shade during the summer. There is an $8 entry fee to enter the park. This is a resort area with a pool and a snack bar (with great hamburgers and drinks). It's a family place and the pool is generally packed with kids, but there are enough routes far enough away from noise to make this a non-issue (the pool can be much welcome after a long day of climbing). The only climbing allowed is sport (they make you sign a waiver that says you won't do any other type). The park is generally closed from Labor Day to the beginning of May. Local climb shops have access information during the winter. During the summer it's open every day. There a couple hundred routes here, enough to keep you busy for a while.
To get there from St. George, take Bluff Street to Hwy. 18 (Bluff turns into 18 after Sunset Blvd./Skyline Dr. intersection). Hwy. 18 also gives access to Chuckawalla Wall, Black Rocks, and Prophesy Wall. About 20 miles outside St. George, before you cross a bridge at the bottom of a hill, a right hand turn leads to the park. It is well marked.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Crawdad Canyon / Veyo:
Great fun route with a small roof that is the crux. There's a finger pocket that's a savior if found. A long reach is helpful to get through this (or faith in your feet)....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Went to Crawdad last weekend (4/07)... prices went up to $10/climber/day! Ouch! It is worth it if the pool and burger stand are open, but they weren't. Perhaps someone should suggest a reduced entry fee when the facilities aren't up to par (ie- no TP in the bathrooms either).
By Gaar From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab Dec 12, 2007
This whole location is an insult to the climbing community
Not So! I don't see how any one could say the above statement. Aug 24th - I just got back. There were a bunch of latino families gathering in the barbque and the pool areas. Yet that night the place was empty. Just me and a German couple climbing. $2.50 if you are a member of SUCC. (I joined LV Mountaineeers Club and am a part of SUCC.) 10 dollars to camp. I was blown away by the place. You could take kids and they could swim or run around. Most every one kept to the pool area. Yet, all along that little river running through, were great bolted routes. EVERYWHERE. It is 109 in the desert 2 hours south. It was 75 the peaceful morning that I woke up and sat in the quiet drinking coffee before I went to climb a totally secluded bunch of walls. Great camping - drive right up to a little spot and camp - not many people around at all and you can walk 20 feet to climb! Jump in the pool later to cool off. There is no where like this! Red Rock is to hot, Charleston cooler but not much by way of instant sport climbs with food and pool and shade every where. This place is amazing! I can't wait to go back. After Sept 1 it closes but if you are a member of SUCC you can pick up a key and let your self in. Can't recommend it enough. It is a climbing resort not an insult to the climbing community.!!
Nice place to climb, it has a very good variety. Too bad it's closed more than open and he charges enough to climb. What a joke. too bad
By Gaar From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab Mar 29, 2009
My opinions are in regards to the grid bolting ethics, GLUED on holds, and the fact that you have to pay to climb. This area is a good idea, just the local ethics, and practices are making climbing a joke. Therefor I don't climb here. Do what you want, but I don't climb to be accepted by you or anyone else, I do it for myself. If you want short approaches to climbs that are overbolted, crowded, and listen to people who cant control their temper, go here; or a gym. Its the same feeling.
If you are into sport routes and gyms this place is amazing! It's basically an outdoor gym a with cool creek to cool off in and lots of shade. I went yesterday (5/19/09) and it was $8 for non-SUCC members, not $10.
I'm a legit trad climber, I fervently believe we should preserve climbs that the next generation can lead on gear by NOT bolting anything that can be protected otherwise. That being said, the veyo situation is unique: the insurance liability is profound for land owners and they have chosen to let us climb on their rocks as long as they are protected by bolts. (Trad climbing would alter their liability for the worse) This anomaly is a rare situation where bolting is the lesser of two evils (the other evil being barring climbing completely). They're a business, they need to sustain their livelihood. It's a great place. The climbing is downright awesome! Many of the lines WOULD make 3 star trad lines but, instead, they make 3 star sport climbs. I agree when you say leave any attitude at home, this is an outdoor gym more than a real area. If you keep an open mind, ignore lack of common etiquettes, and appreciate that the owners are trying to make a buck it is one of the most fun weekends I've had in a loooong time. Join S.U.C.C. if the prices aren't palatable.
This place is super family friendly. We love to camp here. The kids like to catch crawdads from the creek. There are cool 5.10 routes right next to easy 5.6s and 7s so we get the younger ones climbing right next to the older kids. The weather is amazing, it is nice and shady and the people who are there have always been really cool. The belay areas are clean and open, with lots of room. There are literally hundreds of routes.
Places like this and the work of guys like Todd Goss make climbing a possibility for beginners and families who otherwise would not be able to handle the rigors and expense of serious climbing.