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Elephant Dome
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Crater Genetics 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Dave Deschamps, Joe Bernfield, and many others, 1989
Season: Winter only
Page Views: 833
Submitted By: Aleix on Feb 14, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Crater Genetics in blue (by me), Elephantiasis in ...
  • There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area. MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED! MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    If you have bailed from other mentally and physically challenging routes in Arizona such as Sensory Desuetude or Coming to Grips, you may actually be able to finish this one.
    A significant step-up from Elephantiasis, this route has much better rock and more exposure. Even though all the hard moves are well protected, most often by bolts, it does have some spice in not-so-hard runout terrain.

    A good description of every pitch can be found here:
    www.climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_html/page156.html

    Variation: In pitch 5, after the bomb-bay offwidth on "ultra-polished" holds (not as bad as it sounds) and before the chimney with death blocks, there is a 1 bold, I mean 1 bolt variation where you clip a bolt at the base and to the left of the chimney and climb on the outside of it (by Jim Scott and Virgil Davis).
    Almost all the pitches are full rope-lengths.

    The wall is mostly south facing, but the upper headwall (from top of P3) goes into the shade around 2 or 3pm. Plan accordingly depending on temperatures. It can be hot and sweaty in the sun or quite cold in the shade.


    Location 

    Starts just Left of Elephantiasis, right under the left huge block at the end of the 1st pitch. The first bolt (50 feet up) can be seen from the ground.


    Protection 

    Double rack up to .75 or #1, then one #2 and one #3. Stoppers. 14 or so draws, half of them extendables. We didn't use any RPs but aliens are very useful.



    Photos of Crater Genetics Slideshow Add Photo
    Moving into the huecos higher up
    Moving into the huecos higher up
    Looking up the 1st Pitch
    Looking up the 1st Pitch
    Wyatt flashing the very difficult 3rd pitch
    Wyatt flashing the very difficult 3rd pitch
    Wyatt following the very "R" second pitch
    Wyatt following the very "R" second pitch
    Nearing the end of the 4th pitch
    Nearing the end of the 4th pitch
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