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Crater Crag of North Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crater Cat 
Debhedral 
Doug's Variation 
Fragile X 
Gig, The 
Golden Arete 
Misty 
Mountain Lion 
Rancid 
Sending Choss 
Sweet 

Crater Cat 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Deb Thompson, LP
Page Views: 109
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 10, 2013
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Deb about mid-height.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an interesting little line that ascends an obvious dihedral in the middle of the crag. It goes through some different rock bands of varying quality...and that may be why it wasn't climbed before today.

There are a couple ways to start on the friable volcanic band low down. Both ways utilize a nice pocket 8 feet up. Wiggle left and then right into the dihedral. Continue through some awkward features on both sides of the dihedral. About mid-height, there are some holds on the arete to the left. Beware of a hollow block left of the arete. Figure out a way up the arete. You can go up the arete or do a few loose jams out left. Stem the dihedral utlizing some fragile holds out right. Finish the dihedral more on the left.

It's probably best to belay away from the base of the rock for now. After a decent first pass of cleaning, the interesting moves separated by good rests make it worth a go, though this will shed for a bit.


Location 

This is between Misty and Rancid and ascends a slightly less-than-vertical dihedral.


Protection 

Currently, it's not clear this warrants fixed hardware, given the lowest band has really questionable rock for bolts. Maybe a very long stick clip and 1st bolt in solid rock 15 feet up or so might work...or a high 1st bolt with a long chain, ugh.

The toprope anchor can use a #0.1, #0.2, #1 Camalot, blue & yellow Alien, and a medium wire. Various slings up to 6' are useful. It's probably 4th class to get to set up an anchor, which is easier from the north.



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Deb does the right start, which is probably easier for shorter folks with flexibility. <br /> <br />Note, she is in the section that would be difficult to get in a reliable bolt.
Deb does the right start, which is probably easier...
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