Crash and Burn 5.9+ R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Henry Barber, John Stannard, & Rick Hatch - 1974 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Feb 22, 2006 |
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While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, there will be LEGAL climbing at Sky Top available starting April 1, 2007. MORE INFO >>>
Alpine Endeavors has been contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top, and ONLY to overnight guests of the Mountain House. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be an overnight guest at the Mountain House AND be guided. Even if you're an overnight guest who is a fully-competent climber, you MUST still be guided. Guided rock climbing is not included in the price of your stay; look HERE and HERE for more information.
Apparently, plans are in the works to have security patrols stepped up to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back. Due to this development, the guide book information will be put back up, and the population of the route DB is encouraged.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Crash and Burn is yet another climb that has increased my respect for Henry Barber's boldness and commitment. This thing will have you giggling or crying, depending on how you handle fear -- before you even commit to the crux.
Begin on the far right-hand end of Sky Top, very close to where the trail from Duck Pond meets the base of the cliff, at a very obvious 50'-high pillar that is completely separate from the wall.
This pillar appears to have fallen away from the main wall, forming a large cave and roof. One must climb to the top of the pillar, and reach across over the void to the lip of the roof. The prospect of a fall while committing to this move is horrifying: your only reliable pro is well below your feet on the pillar. The problem I had with the move was that, at full extension, on my tiptoes, I could just barely touch the lip of the roof -- and as it was, I had to "fall into it" -- only to find that the jug was still an inch or two out of reach! It wasn't fun looking straight down from an almost prostrate position, trying to figure out how to gain enough momentum (while my body was completely stretched out) to either return to the pillar or reach the jug. Fortunately I did not "Crash and Burn."
Snag the jug (crux, 5.9+), do a pull up and a very high heel hook, or campus to the next jug, and continue up 70 feet or so of sustained (and relatively well-protected) 5.9 face climbing.
I believe a single 70-meter rope will get you down (rap station climber's left), but I remember seeing an intermediate rap station halfway down the wall.
Protection Standard Rack.
| Comments on Crash and Burn |
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By andrew kulmatiski
From: logan, ut
Feb 26, 2009
| this is one to remember: steck salathe, moby grape, lost arrow spire... this is up there.
I was encouraged to write a comment b/c some of my fondest memories are of hiking the lemonsqueeze trail, climbing strawberry yogurt with my dad, supercrack with Ken Nichols, and climbing Crash and Burn. Its a shame to lose these experiences to private property and liability concerns.
Anyway, this climb is memorable, and i'm 6'2" (its harder if you're shorter). Henry Barber had to have jumped for the FA, unbelievable. The weight of his swaying sack should have been a concern b/c your feet really swing after you cut loose off the pillar. Get out there for some civil disobedience - do it right in naked in vulgarian style - let it swing. |
By Optimistic
From: New Paltz
Mar 26, 2012
| Regarding the posting above: it would actually be quite a shame to jeopardize access to the REST of the climbs in the Gunks, all of which are on private land and open to climbers thanks to the climber-friendly attitude of the Preserve, so that you can briefly amuse yourself on this route (which does indeed sound totally awesome). I'm bummed to miss out on these routes, too, but I'd be a whole lot more bummed if the rest of my home crags were also closed due to some stunt at Skytop.
Please do not climb at Skytop, which the Preserve has just as much right to forbid as Mr. Kulmatiski does to forbid climbing on the roof of his car or house...acts which I doubt he would see as "civil disobedience", but rather as trespassing. |
By andrew kulmatiski
From: logan, ut
Oct 28, 2012
| I climbed this back in the day when it was still 'open' in the winter. Regardless of current access status, I think documenting these climbs is important for historical reasons and b/c I hope it encourages access to climbing in the future. Henry Barber, hats off. |
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