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 ADVANCED
Pup Tent of Solitude
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Aloha S 
Beer, Bolts, & Trundeled Boulders (BBTB) S 
Canyon Wren S 
Close to the Bone S 
Country Style Pork Rib S 
Craptonite S 
Dark Side S 
Deputy Dawg S 
Disturbed Susan T,S 
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Magical Handhold S 
Nickelpup, The S 
Nose Picking Good S 
Puppy Love S 
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Red Breasts and Hot Wings T,S 
Rex Luthor S 
Shapeshifter S 
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Speed S 
Step Up To The Flake S 
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Subtle Knife S 
Thin and Crispy S 
Tooth or Consequences S 
Total Eclipse S 

Craptonite 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Pegg, 2005
Page Views: 178
Submitted By: Alvaro Arnal on Mar 18, 2012

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Al on Craptonite. Photo by Olivia Siegel.

Description 

Test your vertical jump at the start, and then climb through some scary, loose rock before clipping the first bolt. From here, the rock improves dramatically. Make some fun pulls off of incut edges to the second bolt. The crux comes between the second and third bolts in the form of big pulls off of small crimps. A few more moves gets you to the mantel top-out. The anchors are above the ledge.

Location 

This route is located on the short panel of rock just left of Rex Luthor.

Protection 

4 bolts. The bolt anchor are above the ledge (can't see them from ground).


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