Three star moves on two star rock. Everyone I saw follow it loved it though a few leaders were a bit wigged out up there.This is the narrow right-facing corner close to the left end of Finn Wall. A few distingusing features are the wide inset at the start with a little calcite on the left side of the inside of this corner, the "chunky" looking band 1/2 way up, which is actually very good rock and not generally loose, and then at the top the thin cracks and flakes to the left of the dihedral for the last 10+ meters, which are the crux.
Climb this to the top, up high stemming and long moves between the best locks are the keys to success. The anchor is an open hanger + bolt with a fixed biner. Not ideal for TR-ing. If you do, clove-hitch or girth-hitch the sling to the 'open' to keep it seated.
The climb requires a 70M rope to lower off or TR.
Cams from tiny (thin tips) to 4". two each .75", 1", and 1.5"; three each 2" & 2.5"; three or four 3"; two 3.5".
I-forget-who follows 'Crappichino, (5.10+)' coming...
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 16, 2005
hey. think this a route i put up with eric d in the late 90s. was there a scratched marker naming it?
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 19, 2005
Yeah, there is, but not more than the name is on it as I recall. It's in the book as such as well.
|By Par Lindholm|
Nov 7, 2006
This route is so scary. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. If you decide to lead it, make sure your belayer uses a helmet and stays safely to the side. There are a lot of HUGE loose blocks up there, blocks that will hold for climbing but probably not for any kind of fall.
|By Kole DeCou|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 30, 2007
Personally this is my favorite 10 at the creek, but I may have strange tastes. The pro is good and the loose rock easily climbed around if you've climbed much in the desert.
|By Cody Ferguson|
From: Tempe, AZ
Mar 26, 2010
I agree with Kole, but then again, I also dig climbing in Sedona. I found it to really be a gem hidden behind a quirky somewhat pessimistic name. I'd highly recommend it--it'll definitely wake you up.
|By Dan G0D5H411|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13
This route is amazing in its improbability of being climbed at only 5.10! 4 star movement reduced to 3 stars by some lower quality rock in the middle of the climb and blocks above. Anchors 5 feet lower would mitigate some of the fear induced by large blocks at the top of the route.