Cranny 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Scott Little, November 1972 |
| Submitted By: | Mark J. Nelson on Jan 2, 2003 |
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Climber on Cranny
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Description Just right of center on the west face, there's a ledge about ten feet wide and five feet high. You can gain the ledge through unprotected but relatively easy climbing at either end.
Cranny starts from the right end of the ledge, and follows the obvious double crack system. It requires an interesting combination of techniques, and protection is adequate but not copious.
Protection Standard rack, including small cams (Aliens).
Nate "Night Train" Knight pulling the double
crac...
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Cameron is only 8!! What a stud!
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BETA PHOTO: Savannah pointing the way to Cranny (5.8)
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By Brian Reynolds
Nov 29, 2003
rating: 5.8
| I didn't realize how steep this climb is until I was into the alcove and standing at the base. Fun, interesting climb. |
By Infernal Doom Fanatic
Oct 1, 2004
rating: 5.8+
| Better as a toprope.The crack gets sandy and the pro can be dubious and tricky. Quite steep for a 5.8 and the final moves are a mutha! |
By namascar
Apr 4, 2005
rating: 5.8
| Belaying from the first ledge above the ground makes this climb much safer. Otherwise, a leader fall higer up can end up on the leader hitting the second ledge, due to rope stretch. |
By Blitzo
Sep 10, 2006
| Fun route. |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 7, 2007
rating: 5.8
| This climb is surprisingly fun! I found solid gear, and never felt that the protection was dubious (and I'm pretty picky about good gear!) Definitely steep for a 5.8! |
By 72HW
Mar 3, 2008
rating: 5.8
| Maybe this one has cleaned up over the years, I found the pro to be bomber and saw little of the above mentioned sand. Went on a nut down low and two BD #1's. Top out moves are powerful to say the least, and the high step layback is tons of fun. Overall, an exciting - if all too short - lead that I will do again! |
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Jan 11, 2009
rating: 5.8
| I thought this climb was a lot easier than it looked (althogh I only toproped it). The pro looked a little sketchy, would love to lead it otherwise. I stemmed most of the way up which probably made it feel easier. |
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 27, 2009
rating: 5.8
| Way more fun than I expected for such a short route! First 5.8 lead. |
By attila
Feb 16, 2010
| Take just a light rack of cams and nuts. Lots of stemming. Last moves at the top are definitely stout. |
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.8
| Short, a better toprope than as a lead. All of an "8." |
By kennoyce
From: Clearfield, UT
Dec 20, 2010
rating: 5.8
| This climb is tons of fun (if only it could have been 4 times as long). The moves are varied and cool and the protection was great. No need for aliens, I placed a .75, 1, and 2 C4 all of which were bomber. As for the rating, I didn't know what it was rated before jumping on it and when I got to the top I said it felt like 5.8, so I'd say the rating is right on. |
By Canon
Nov 8, 2011
| Good climb. Was scratching my head at the crux until I figured out to stem wide and lieback. |
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