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Cranner Rock
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Ali Babba and the Forty Thieves T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Cranner Rock Roof Crack 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Greg Collins
Page Views: 1,225
Submitted By: Tom Rangitsch on Jul 17, 2008

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Sticky situation MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Super steep climbing up a finger and hand crack to a difficult boulder problem pulling over a roof. The first half is mostly slopey jugs outside the crack. Start with a yellow c3 or similar size to protect the first difficult move, pulling a small overhang on slopers. Next, place a green c3 or equivalent from a good stance. Just above this is a great nut placement, it's actually been fixed for the last few years. Next go to a left slopey crimp outside the crack, get a crappy right hand jamb in the crack and crank up to a better left hold/jug left of the crack. High feet get you to a right hand jug from which you place a blue camalot or similar in a pod just below your hand. Next get a heel hook with the right foot outside the crack and reach high to a great hand jamb with the left. You clip a bolt here, which was placed to keep the rope out of the crack.

The crux is next. Reach really far to a right thumbs down finger lock, throw a left heel on the lip of the overlap and crank up to thin right handjamb. Most people then match in an undercling below the handjamb to readjust. There is an optional grey camalot placement here. You next reach really high over the second tier of the roof to a decent right hand finger lock. Then match left hand, shimmy up and over the last bulge and finally get to a bomber left hand finger lock. That's my blow by blow.

The last 20-30 feet is decent but pumpy 5.11 fingers in a corner.

This route would be on the cover of Climbing if it were in a less remote area.

Location 

North side of Cranner rock. There is a big roof formed by a huge boulder coming off the cliff which has split into a few pieces. The Roof Crack is on the right side of this feature, left of Geophysical (mistakenly called "Cranner Crack" on this sight). There is a bolted dihedral (possibly 5.14) between the two routes.

Protection 

Small stoppers and c3s or similar for the bottom. A 3.5 friend or blue camalot protects the section before the roof. There is a bolt in the roof section that makes the crux feel more secure, if just a little. The top is finger and hands gear, you need 2 or three pieces above the crux. There are fixed stoppers in the steep section before the bolt and then after the roof in the vert corner. This route was originally done with a fixed pin protecting the crux instead of the bolt. It was common to get the rope stuck in the crack, but this has been largely eliminated with the bolt. Whatever your ethics are on this, I for one was glad to clip it. There is a 2 bolt anchor with rap rings at the top. Oh, you can also rap from a 1 bolt anchor on top of the cliff down to this 2 bolt station if you want to set up a TR.


Comments on Cranner Rock Roof Crack Add Comment
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By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 18, 2008

The bolt in the roof section also serves to keep your rope out of the crack. Reportedly, before the bolt was placed, a fall after turning the roof could wedge the rope between a rock and a cam lobe, with predictable results. The bolt was (reportedly) placed after one such incident.
By awesomejacksonhole
From: Laramie, WY
Dec 28, 2008

Sounds like your typical bolted crack to me.