Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Cranner Rock Roof Crack
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Cranner Rock North Aspect
|
Ali Babba and the Forty Thieves T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
|
Bushwhacker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Coffeebuzz Durability S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Cranner Rock Roof Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Geophysical T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Heet T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Jaw Bone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Larry, Curly and Mo T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Matt's finger crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
PU239 T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Ty's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
U238 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Wandering Star T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Western Nuclear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Wild Jennies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Greg Collins |
| Page Views: | 3,509 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Rangitsch on Jul 17, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: Sticky situation
Details
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Description
The first 5.13 in Wyoming (originally rated 12d by Greg Collins, but folks in the 80s didn't know how strong they were). The Cranner Rock Roof Crack is on my short list of the best routes I've ever done. It consists of super steep climbing up a finger and hand crack to a difficult boulder problem pulling over a roof. Good gear abounds and a bolt protects the crux. The last 20 feet is 5.11 fingers in a corner. Sport climbers should not hesitate to get on this route. It is very easy to protect and the climbing is sequential, pumpy, and pretty straight forward.
Location
North side of Cranner Rock. There is a big overhang formed by a huge block that cleaved off the cliff which has split into a few pieces. The Roof Crack is on the right side of this overhang, left of Geophysical. There is a bolted dihedral (possibly 5.14) between the two routes.
Protection
Small cams and stoppers protect this very well. There is a great 3.5 friend or blue camalot placement before the roof boulder problem. A bolt protects the crux (your feet are about 1 foot above it while doing the crux moves). This was placed to keep the rope out of the crack as you move higher. Bring 2 or 3 finger sized pieces for the vert crack above the crux. It has a 2 bolt anchor with rings. There is also a single bolt you can rap off of from the summit if you want to set up a TR.
1 Comment