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Devil's Advocate
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Crankin' stein T 
I Want My Mummy T 
Knots-feratu T 
Lichen-thrope T 
Northeast Ridge T 

Crankin' stein 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tony Bubb & Patty Johnson, 6/24/2006
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces NW- Morning shade
Page Views: 268
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 26, 2006

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Patty J. starting into the 2nd roof and crux of Cr...

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This fun route starts off with a radically leaning handcrack behind a set of flakes. For the first several meters you will be moving more sideways than upwards, off of rock-solid jams. It is hard work, but secure and well protected. It's the best route on the Devil's Advocate, but that is admittedly a measured compliment.
Climb up and right on good over-head hand-jams (crux) and turn the corner with good footholds to a shallow right-facing corner. Climb the corner and crack until it ends, near the top of the rock. Traverse right on a horizontal crack and then down a few meters to the rap anchor at the top of 'Lichen-thrope.'


On the West face of the D.A. and perhaps 3 meters left of the huge roofs, you will see a left facing corner with a tree in the top of it. This is the route 'Lichen-thrope' and it has a sling rap-anchor on the tree. About 4 meters left of that there is a system of overhanging flakes with good jamcracks leading up and right for several meters before going vertical, parallel and left (north) of 'Lichen-thrope'. This flake and crack system is 'Crankin-stein.'


A set of cams from 1.5 to 3.5 inches. A few longer slings will help prevent drag.

Photos of Crankin' stein Slideshow Add Photo
Patty Johnson passes the 3rd and final roof of Cra...
Patty Johnson passes the 3rd and final roof of Cra...

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