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Routes in Devil's Advocate
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Blue Baboon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Crankin' stein T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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I Want My Mummy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kamidana S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Knots-feratu T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lich-an't Recommend It T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Lichen-thrope T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Northeast Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Pink Hyena aka Tuck n' Cover S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Purple Serpent S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Tony Bubb & Patty Johnson, 6/24/2006 |
| Page Views: | 750 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 26, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This fun route starts off with a radically leaning handcrack behind a set of flakes. For the first several meters you will be moving more sideways than upwards, off of rock-solid jams. It is hard work, but secure and well protected. It's the best route on the Devil's Advocate, but that is admittedly a measured compliment.
Climb up and right on good over-head hand-jams (crux) and turn the corner with good footholds to a shallow right-facing corner. Climb the corner and crack until it ends, near the top of the rock. Traverse right on a horizontal crack and then down a few meters to the rap anchor at the top of 'Lichen-thrope.'
Climb up and right on good over-head hand-jams (crux) and turn the corner with good footholds to a shallow right-facing corner. Climb the corner and crack until it ends, near the top of the rock. Traverse right on a horizontal crack and then down a few meters to the rap anchor at the top of 'Lichen-thrope.'
Location
On the West face of the D.A. and perhaps 3 meters left of the huge roofs, you will see a left facing corner with a tree in the top of it. This is the route 'Lichen-thrope' and it has a sling rap-anchor on the tree. About 4 meters left of that there is a system of overhanging flakes with good jamcracks leading up and right for several meters before going vertical, parallel and left (north) of 'Lichen-thrope'. This flake and crack system is 'Crankin-stein.'
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