||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb & Patty Johnson, 6/24/2006|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Faces NW- Morning shade|
|Page Views: ||257|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jun 26, 2006|
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Patty J. starting into the 2nd roof and crux of Cr...
This fun route starts off with a radically leaning handcrack behind a set of flakes. For the first several meters you will be moving more sideways than upwards, off of rock-solid jams. It is hard work, but secure and well protected. It's the best route on the Devil's Advocate, but that is admittedly a measured compliment.
Climb up and right on good over-head hand-jams (crux) and turn the corner with good footholds to a shallow right-facing corner. Climb the corner and crack until it ends, near the top of the rock. Traverse right on a horizontal crack and then down a few meters to the rap anchor at the top of 'Lichen-thrope.'
On the West face of the D.A. and perhaps 3 meters left of the huge roofs, you will see a left facing corner with a tree in the top of it. This is the route 'Lichen-thrope' and it has a sling rap-anchor on the tree. About 4 meters left of that there is a system of overhanging flakes with good jamcracks leading up and right for several meters before going vertical, parallel and left (north) of 'Lichen-thrope'. This flake and crack system is 'Crankin-stein.'
A set of cams from 1.5 to 3.5 inches. A few longer slings will help prevent drag.
Patty Johnson passes the 3rd and final roof of Cra...