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Techweeny Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Completely Clueless T,S 
Crackula T 
Crankenstein S 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Horak, Mark Leonard, 1986
Page Views: 393
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 29, 2012

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Awesome thin face climbing up the right side of Techweenie Buttress. Sometimes reach around the right side and find hidden holds on the corner. The crux comes around bolt 5 and is an improbable highstep, which is really cool. At the top, step left to the 2-bolt anchor above Completely Clueless. This climb was probably bolted on lead, but climbs like a sport climb now.

The old Hill Sandia guide shows an obscure 2nd pitch to this route, at 5.10c (on the topo) or 5.11 (in the route description). To continue on this obscure part, which I didn't do, step left to the highest bolt on Bojin and go up a seam passing some fixed pins, then route-find to the right and the top of the formation(?). Bring gear if you're doing that. Judging from the color of the bail biner I collected on p1 (purple on one side, gray on the sunny side), p1 doesn't see much action either.


Rightmost of the 3 sport climbs on the the smooth face of Techweenie Buttress, right of Crackula


6 or 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The last (7th) bolt is useful as a directional for a follower, but is so close to the anchor that it isn't helpful on lead. 3 of the bolts are 1/4".

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By Paul Davidson
Aug 22, 2012

Has anyone replaced these old 1/4" bolts yet ?
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 23, 2012

In April 2012, 3 bolts were 1/4" (one of them was the last bolt a few feet right of the anchor, which isn't as important as the others); the other 4 were bigger. I think the crux was protected by a more modern bolt, but don't remember for sure.
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