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Crank Whore 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 974
Submitted By: Nick Sullens on Sep 28, 2011

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about to reach the giant rest

Description 

The most popular route on the Main Wall. Follow the line of XL jugs up until the bolt line splits, follow the jugs to the right. The crux can be pulled multiple ways but involves the right hand undercling, high feet, and a toss, the true crux is just being fresh for the crux, as the move is probably only v0+.

Location 

This route is located about dead center of the main wall, directly left of the large dead stump. The anchor can be easily recognized by the hideously massive biner stealing chain wrapped around the large pine tree.

Protection 

8 bolts or so?


Photos of Crank Whore Slideshow Add Photo
About to work the crux moves.
About to work the crux moves.

Comments on Crank Whore Add Comment
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By Chris G.
From: Lakewood
Jun 18, 2013

Very good route! All the moves are pretty big but the holds are huge. Hardest thing about this route is fighting the pump
By CrimperE6
From: ca
Nov 2, 2014

French 6c+, reachy.
For an easier version, start up this and finish up fashion victim, voila! missing out both cruxs and no reachy moves, but still getting pumped at F6c ish.

(Fashion to Crank is fun too)
By Muscrat
Feb 17, 2015

The name says it all, pump fest. Watch out for the poison oak, it abounds!
By Jeremy Bauman
From: Lakewood, CO
Feb 20, 2015

Great route! Definitely worth a lap if you're in the area.
By Steve Weyand
From: Redding
1 day ago
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

For those who have climbed Crank Whore in the past and are familiar with the common right hand crux hold at the 5th bolt, this hold broke off this week leaving a 6 inch oblong blank spot. If you are taller, it may be possible to use a 2 finger pocket above the broken section. I know many people who have opted to not use the right hand hold and move straight up through less than positive slopers. For us shorter folks, I believe this increases the grade from the previous 5.11a to a much more technical 5.11b/c. Time will tell if this is the consensus?
By Steve Weyand
From: Redding
1 day ago
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Crank Whore has new anchors! The larger than life chain that has hung around the giant pine tree at the cliffs edge has been an eye sore for years. Although it allows for easy setup of a top rope, it has caused serious wear around the tree and to the limestone along the cliff's edge. After discussing the chain issue with the FA party and several other developers in the the area, the consensus was to leave the large chain for a few months after installing new bolts, until users become acquainted with the change. The chain will be removed this spring 2015.

The new main anchor below the tree is now the top anchors for Space Sluts, which just makes better sense for the termination of that route while one is on lead.

Crank Whore's new anchors have been shifted right to line up directly over the route and to allow the new anchor to be drilled into higher quality rock. It also made sense to move Crank Whore's anchors to the right, because reaching the large chain while on lead, was difficult to say the least.

In summary, while looking up at the cliff, Space Sluts anchors are on the left, where the larger than life chain hung around the tree. Crank Whores anchors are to the right.