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Sunset Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Avenger, The T 
Crank Shaft T 
I'll be Black S 
Predator S 
Squeeze Please T,S 
Sunset Crack T 
Unnecessary Buffness T,S 
Withholding Evidence T,S 
Wrong Side of the Tracks T 

Crank Shaft 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: T. Perkins
Page Views: 247
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jul 25, 2011

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Description 

This is a short, power-packed, little corner route with some techno-stemming! I think this rig is one of the steller trad testpieces of the grade, on The Pass.

It has a well-protected (get that gear in just right!), hard start to short but sustained laybacking in the tight corner. I gave it an "R" rating, but that's dependent on what gear you've got - there's this one tricky spot where only just the right brand and size cam placed a certain way will work...okay. If that piece blows, you'd better have a great belayer!!!


Location 

This is the farthest left route on Sunset Cliff, the leftmost, clean dihedral without bolts.


Protection 

See the description...but for a recommendation/comparison purposes: blue Alien - #2 Friend, medium nuts, a medium (#7 or 8) Hex works. Double open shut anchor.



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