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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Altered-Acro 
Athlete's Feat 
Atlas Shrugged 
Bailey's Overhang 
Beetle Bailey 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) 
Big Splash, The 
Black Crack, The 
Boot Lead 
By Gully 
Cadaver Crack 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The 
Circadian Rhythms 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge 
Coffin Crack 
Comeback Crack 
Country Club Crack 
Crank It (aka Slabio) 
Curving Crack 
Cussin' Crack 
Cussing Fingers Variant 
Deadline 
Deersquatch 
Direct Start 
Dropout Option 
E-Z Action 
Englishman's Home 
Final Exam 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The 
Gluten Free 
Hardboiled 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot 
Jackson's Wall 
Jackson's Wall Direct 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment 
Nintendo 
No Fly Zone 
Nobody's Home 
One 
Pass Fail Option 
Polyester Leisure Suit 
Queen is Dead, The 
Rebellion 
Replacement Killers, The 
Skunk Crack 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The 
Stingay 
Storming the Castle 
Subterranean Homesick Blues 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past 
Tongo 
Tourist Extravagance 
Trainspotting 
Water World 
West Face 
West Face, Direct Start 

Crank It (aka Slabio) 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Jerry Moffat
Page Views: 2,257
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Crank It.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I have not climbed this route. I have tried to climb this route. Dave Graham has flashed this route, according to 8a.nu. Climb the thin smooth corner left of Jackson's Wall, right of the Aid Roof. Do a hard boulder problem and then layback up the slickest dihedral at Castle to a no-holds stance below the anchor. Let go with a hand and clip it. Good Luck.


Protection 

3 bolts/anchor.



Photos of Crank It (aka Slabio) Slideshow Add Photo
Working on cranking it. Something I usually don't do in front of people.
Working on cranking it. Something I usually don't ...
The anchors seem so close and yet so far....
The anchors seem so close and yet so far....
Comments on Crank It (aka Slabio) Add Comment
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By steve dieckhoff
Aug 28, 2002

It was my understanding that Pat Adams bolted this but considered it an open project and Jerry did it when he was here to climb Just Do it. Pat's generosity is commendable. I think Peter's honesty is also commendable.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 30, 2002

Slabio is arguable one of the best pitches in the country if not the world! Three stars for good position. Moffat rated it 14a. Tommy C. down rated it to 13c. The crux is probably six inches long. The crack leading up to the anchors is 12c/d.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 9, 2005

A couple months ago I watched Taylor Roy lead this route while placing gear. It was impressive. (I think he had previously red-pointed the route using the bolts). - Chad

By Luke Childers
Aug 26, 2009
rating: 5.13c/d 8b 31 X E8 7a

I have tried this line and could do it with one hang, but I never went back to link it up. A fun line that I felt was 13c for sure.