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Crampons and Boots Recommendations?

Original Post
DesertRat · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 196

I did a search and found some information, but I was hoping for some more specifics.

I've got some gift cards to BD to use and wanted to acquire some crampons. I want to use them for general mountaineering as well as more technical routes e.g. Rainier, Denali and eventually some colder and higher altitude stuff. I am planning on taking a skills course through RMI this coming season. I am thinking that I want to try out some ice climbing as well, if nothing more, than at least as a means to increase my technical ability on mountains.

Based on previous forum posts and other sites etc, I have pretty mush settled on the Sabretooths, but I don't know which binding to go with? From the reading, it seems like the 'Pro' style binding is the most popular, being the hybrid strap/clip.

Additionally, a recommendation for a good boot that will work as an all around until I either start working into the higher altitude, or harder ice?

Thanks in advance....

jmeizis · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 230

I like the pro binding. It means you can't put them on boots without toe welts but I feel like they're more solidly on my feet.

As far as boots go I'm a big fan of Sportiva boots but figure out what fits your feet and go with that.

Chris Freye · · Seattle · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 30

You are definitely on track with the Sabretooths as I personally think those are the best all around that don't break the bank. Pro vs. Clip is a personal thing but someone on here once told me to get the clip for various reasons and I am glad I bought that one. I would suggest getting the clip over the pro because it is then versitile and you can use on boots that don't have toe welts. If you're only going to own boots with toe welts then that's not a big deal. The other reason I bought clips is that the toe welt can sometime fill with snow and it can be a pain to get pro crampons on (that just might be me though).

As for boots, a good starting point is the Nepal Evos and the Scarpa Mont Blancs depending on foot shape. If you have wide feet go for Scarpa.

This is just my personal opinion and I am sure other people will have theirs as well. My setup for climbing Rainier is Mont Blancs and Sabretooth clips and it works perfectly. For Rainier in the summer you could even go for lighter boots. I can't say much about getting warmer boots for Denali and stuff since I haven't done anything like that but most people gravitate towards the Spantik by La Sportiva.

Good luck and if you're ever in WA and want to climb some volcanoes, hit me up.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Doing very cold/high mountains might mean wearing fat overboots. The pro binding will accommodate that with less fuss than the clip.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Pro. That's the easy answer.

Whichever boot fits you and keeps your feet warm should be the boot but.. But what are doing with these new boots? Rainer? When? You'll need double boots or single depending on what month. Denali? Double boots like the LaSportiva Spantik.

You said you might do something with RMI. I suggest renting boots from them and see if you like mountaineering. Anything overnight and you'll want doubles.

Ice climbing? The single leather boot that fits the best. You'll sweat your ass off in doubles when it's 20 outside.

You must have some coin if you wanna get into HA Mountaineering and ice climbing at the same time. Ahh. I remember when I thought my ice climbing crap would be fine for mountaineering. What's a picket?

dustinryan85 · · Bishop, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 15

I am also looking for a good boot, specifically for Rainier in June, as well as some other peaks in WA. I currently have Asolo AFS 8000s, which I like for everything but walking on trails. They're SUPER warm and comfortable in the snow, but on rocky trails, they start to feel uncomfortable. I feel like these will be terrible at the beginning go the climb, and I do not want to carry two pairs of boots.
I have had my eye on the Mont Blancs for some time, but have not been to a store to try them on. Thoughts on these? Warm enough for bigger mountains? I also intend to try Denali in a couple of years, will I want something more like the phantom 6000s?

Thanks

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215
dustinryan85 wrote:I am also looking for a good boot, specifically for Rainier in June, as well as some other peaks in WA. I currently have Asolo AFS 8000s, which I like for everything but walking on trails. They're SUPER warm and comfortable in the snow, but on rocky trails, they start to feel uncomfortable. I feel like these will be terrible at the beginning go the climb, and I do not want to carry two pairs of boots. I have had my eye on the Mont Blancs for some time, but have not been to a store to try them on. Thoughts on these? Warm enough for bigger mountains? I also intend to try Denali in a couple of years, will I want something more like the phantom 6000s? Thanks
Running shoes on the trail, switching to boots at the glacier.

It doesn't matter how comfy my boots are, trail runners are much nicer to cover trail in. A friend of mine wears Chacos until the glacier (but he's kinda crazy).
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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