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Crampon binding systems
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By Danomcq
Feb 8, 2013
Canon ct
S as I was googling my ass off or trolling on forums I came across a link to a blog about climbing. In this blog the author shares his notes from a lecture given by Colin haley, if you don't know who he is google him. The guy is an amazing climber and obviously does what works for him. One thing I read in the notes for his presentation was that Colin advocates everyone use fully strap on style crampons. Maybe chalk it up to my lack of experience, but that doesn't seem as secure as semi auto or full step in crampons.

To the experienced alpinists and climbers what are your thoughts??? Anyone have experiences with this??

Here is the link

nasakoski.com/2010/11/colin-ha...

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By Keith Robinson
Feb 8, 2013
Fitzroy09
I had a front bail break on a climb once and had to use the draw string from a pack to tie my crampon to my boot. Since then I have only used crampons without the front bail. At the moment I have a pair of full strap on and a pair of semi-auto.

I like the full strap on because I can go between boots/shoes with one crampon. I have used my strap on crampons with my LS Nepal Extreme & Evos on climbs but also used them on approach shoes (Cirque Pro) in the Bugs when conditions were icy.

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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Feb 9, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock
I'm not as experience as Haley, but I am certainly experienced enough to know that experienced climbers' opinions, especially internet climbers' opinions, need to be taken cum grano salis. The things that work for one man will NOT necessarily be the best options for another, regardless of experience.

It's true that straps are less breakable than plastic and wire bales. But what kind of odds are we talking? How does that offset the difference in performance you're going to be limited to with a strap-on? I haven't seen any strap-on vertical front points in a long time.. You're not going to find a technical ice or mixed 'pon with a strap-on system.

If you're climbing easy AI, or steep snow, or even some less technical mixed lines, a Contact Strap 'pon will probably work fine, if you want to go that route. I've climbed technical ice in both... I do much prefer the better/tighter stick of a dual or single vertical point 'pon to the hingy, less secure performance of horizontal points. And nothing compares to a good mono for mixed.

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By IamDman
Feb 13, 2013
avatar
Danomcq wrote:
S as I was googling my ass off or trolling on forums I came across a link to a blog about climbing. In this blog the author shares his notes from a lecture given by Colin haley, if you don't know who he is google him. The guy is an amazing climber and obviously does what works for him. One thing I read in the notes for his presentation was that Colin advocates everyone use fully strap on style crampons. Maybe chalk it up to my lack of experience, but that doesn't seem as secure as semi auto or full step in crampons. To the experienced alpinists and climbers what are your thoughts??? Anyone have experiences with this?? Here is the link nasakoski.com/2010/11/colin-ha...


thanks for sharing those notes, I enjoyed reading through it.

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By Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Mar 11, 2013
Lots of possibilities. I prefer a wire bail system. The trouble is, making sure the bails fit your boot. I've done some whacky swapping to customize the fit of my crampons, but they are bomber. In terms of a bail breaking, I haven't had that happen yet in 20 or so yrs of ice climbing and mountaineering... However, if I were to be going somewhere were it might be an issue I always bring spare parts. Don't have any real experience with the newer strap ons, but I can certainly see a case for them for fit. At least in a mountaineering enviro.

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