Cragmont Park. Over the wall, right of the court, ...
This small area is located in Berkeley a little ways from Indian Rock.
This area offers about a dozen climbs (5.6 - 5.11), primarily easier climbs that can be toproped. This would be a great place to bring beginners, as most climbs are not height dependant, and are fairly safe on toprope. The toughest route is sport, with 4 bolts. The routes are primarily shorter slab routes.
There are no access problems, and according to the signs you could actually have a barbeque here and a nice game of basketball on the court located above the climbing area in the main park.
All routes can be walked off.
From other places: Get off I-80 and head east from the Buchanan St / Albany exit. go 3 blocks, and take the soft right onto Marin ave. Follow the road up the hill to the traffic circle. Go around the circle and stay on Marin, which will be the fourth turn. Follow the road uphill to Regal Rd, where you should go right. follow regal a few blocks, and you'll find the park on the right side. Parking is on the street.
From the Berkeley Campus:from the north side of campus, go uphill on Euclid Ave. Go up the hill for a while, and turn right on Regal Rd. The park is one block south.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cragmont Park:
The only route in the area that has bolts on the face of the rock. A neato sustained crux awaits above the 1st bolt, and continues over the roof. Clipping the last bolt is NOT advised, as it looks old, and just clipping it probably makes the route 5.11d. Also, it will unnecessarily create excessive rope drag because the reach to the top anchors is about as far as the reach to the 3rd bolt. Walking off the top is probably best, as it will save your rope some wear. Falling in the easier sections ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
There are four sets of TR bolt anchors. The first two sets (two bolts each, just on the face) on your left as walk along the top are for the Northeast Face. A third set (three bolts) is poorly placed just above the large tree that separates the Northeast from the other face. This set is difficult to get to safely (you can rap from the tree on top of the cliff) and the climbs for which it protects are so poor in quality it is not worth the effort.The fourth set (three bolts) is as far to the right as you can get on the cliff top and are shiny and look new. Rope drag may be a bit of problem and you should bring a couple 48" slings to accomodate this.
Also, Aron's description of the area is far superior to the Guide Book. Print it up and take it with you!
Discovered the 5th set of bolts yesterday. From top of cliff, proceed down the slope, around the decent tree until you can see the fourth set of bolts sitting on the rock in front of you. There is a small, worn path that leads down and to the right, around another tree, and a little downscrambling leads to the fifth set of TR bolts for the .10d and the .11? These also looked in good shape.
Just a heads up to anyone on top of the rock: The area near the south side anchors (above bolt route) has a wasp nest that angers quickly. Myself and another party were stung numerous times today. Avoid the trees if possible and the access trail on the south side. The north anchors (Cragmont Crack) had no such problems.