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The Crag Ranch
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Back at the Ranch 
Candy Ass 
Consolation Prize 
Crag Rancher 
Dusty Trail 
Fenceline 
Granite Rodeo 
Greenhorn 
High Plains Poser 
Life On The Ranch 
Meanwhile 
North 40 
Property Boundary 
Quickdraw Rustler 
Sheep Buggerer, The 
Throwin' the Shit Fit 

Crag Rancher 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Magill, Anderson, Moscowicz, Burwick
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 443
Submitted By: richard magill on Jul 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Looking north out of the alcove.
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Description 

A super-fun and continuous line with all kinds of good movement.The crux section comes about halfway up, with a cool dyno (or a really long static reach) that leads to some good but slightly slopey holds. Maneuvering off these holds onto positive crimps is probably the hardest part. However, there are a couple sections of stout 5.11 above that keeps this climb going all the way to the anchors.

The anchors are at 100 feet, but there is also a second set of anchors at 130 feet, with a few bolts in between. So if you have a couple of ropes, you can go to the higher anchor. The extension is easier and less interesting climbing, and probably isn't worth doing just as a second pitch.

Crag Rancher sits just right of Granite Rodeo (see the approach for Granite Rodeo or Meanwhile) and climbs up the right side of the big red tower.

A year ago, this route would probably only get 1 star due to suspect rock. However, it has now seen enough traffic that the stone seems pretty sound. Everyone that has done this route seems to rave about the continuity - have fun!


Protection 

18 bolts - stick clip for the first bolt is nice.



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By Chris Cavallaro
Sep 8, 2008

A Masterpiece! One of the best climbs, anywhere!

There is one belay bolt under this climb. You can use a bolt on Granite Rodeo and stem up the corner, then backclip after getting the first bolt of CR. I didn't encounter any really bad rock.

The sheer genius of it all....