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The Crag Ranch
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Back at the Ranch S 
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Consolation Prize S 
Crag Rancher S 
Dusty Trail S 
Fenceline S 
Granite Rodeo S 
Greenhorn S 
High Plains Poser S 
Life On The Ranch S 
Meanwhile S 
North 40 S 
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Throwin' the Shit Fit S 

Crag Rancher 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Magill, Anderson, Moscowicz, Burwick
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 466
Submitted By: richard magill on Jul 1, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Looking north out of the alcove.
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Description 

A super-fun and continuous line with all kinds of good movement.The crux section comes about halfway up, with a cool dyno (or a really long static reach) that leads to some good but slightly slopey holds. Maneuvering off these holds onto positive crimps is probably the hardest part. However, there are a couple sections of stout 5.11 above that keeps this climb going all the way to the anchors.

The anchors are at 100 feet, but there is also a second set of anchors at 130 feet, with a few bolts in between. So if you have a couple of ropes, you can go to the higher anchor. The extension is easier and less interesting climbing, and probably isn't worth doing just as a second pitch.

Crag Rancher sits just right of Granite Rodeo (see the approach for Granite Rodeo or Meanwhile) and climbs up the right side of the big red tower.

A year ago, this route would probably only get 1 star due to suspect rock. However, it has now seen enough traffic that the stone seems pretty sound. Everyone that has done this route seems to rave about the continuity - have fun!


Protection 

18 bolts - stick clip for the first bolt is nice.



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By Chris Cavallaro
Sep 8, 2008

A Masterpiece! One of the best climbs, anywhere!

There is one belay bolt under this climb. You can use a bolt on Granite Rodeo and stem up the corner, then backclip after getting the first bolt of CR. I didn't encounter any really bad rock.

The sheer genius of it all....