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Cracktard

Original Post
Matt Contreras · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

Hello. I am a cracktard living in the Colorado Springs area and would like some advice on a good crack climbing location.

I'm an okay climber, but have never climbed a single crack route.
My ideal situation is to use a few days of my spring break next week, enslave my girlfriend as a belay slave, and climb my first few crack routes. No crack is too easy! I have no trad climbing experience or a rack so a top rope is required. I'd prefer not to drive too far, but im pretty open. I'd like a few different possibilities in a single area obviously.

I usually love looking at areas, but im trying to think like a beginner and see if anyone has some novel advice.
Maybe Turkey Rocks? Shoot me some ideas!

Thanks in advance

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18,818

Spring Break....Joshua Tree, Indian Creek, or Yosemite.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
moabdesertadventures.com/sp…

These guys will hook you up! Ideally you'd rest for a day or two after the camp and then start leading some of the stuff that you toproped in the camp. In addition the guides are usually really talented crack climbers so you'll have a ton of opportunities to see it done right.
Mike C · · Co · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,046

turkey rocks!

Eric Klammer · · Eagle, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 2,070

+1 for Turkey Rocks. Easy to set up TR's at the Perch and other shorter crags. Great cracks, lovely setting.

Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330

Hey Matt, you're on the right track with Turkey Rock. The Perch has the best moderate splitter cracks in the area and you can set up topropes fairly easily. Unfortunately you would need gear to set up topropes there, so finding some knowledgeable partners with a rack will be your biggest obstacle.
The Meanie cracks at Arch Rock in 11 mile are another option, topropeable with gear. They are short and not near as quality as the stuff at the Perch.
I can't think of any crack routes with bolted anchors that are accessible from the backside. You might be able to rig some of the Perch routes from trees or boulders way back from the edge if you had two ropes, but that may not be ideal. Whatever you do, be safe and have fun!

Chris Dickson · · Telluride, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 678

Less of a splitter crack, but I have found that Old Aid (9+) is a great way to train some harder cracks moves. You can setup a TR by scrambling a low 5th class open book feature to the right of the route, walk across the top of the cliff and then sling some trees for a TR anchor (this does require some long slings and cordelette). Granted, this is not an EASY crack by any means, but you can get some good hand jams, and it's really close to downtown C.Springs.

Otherwise, go to Turkey Perch and sling the boulder on top of Left-Handed Jew! You can build a TR anchor without any cams for this climb and it is one of the best trainer hand cracks at Turkey Rocks.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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