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Old Quarry Walls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A B-Boy's Alpha S 
Bloodstain, The S 
Crackrock Corner S 
DesparÍte†† S 
Devil's Cut S 
Evil Beauty (Closed Proj) S 
Fiendish Following S 
Golden Ghetto, The S 
People's Rock, The S 
Run For Cover S 
Scifentology S 
Slightly Removed S 
Tasmanian Pain Coaster S 
Tax Evasion Haven S 
Traxamillion S 
Tree of Life, The S 
Winning and Losing S,TR 

Crackrock Corner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FFA: Morgan Patterson
New Route: Yes
Season: Cooler Temps
Page Views: 1,119
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Apr 9, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Crackrock Corner


This route is really a unique gem in CT and reminds me very much of Fly'in Hawiian up at Rumney. Starting in the corner work your way up past 6 bolts to the large overlap. Once over the overlap climb past 3 bolts to an anchor out right (easier climbing). It climbs three ways, a chimney grunt, a corner jam, or true stemming masterpiece. You can tell which I prefer ;-)


9 Bolts to 3 Bolt Rap Anchor. Bring some long runners for TR'ing.

Photos of Crackrock Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the crackrock corner.
Looking down the crackrock corner.

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By John K. Parejko
From: New Haven, CT
Jun 26, 2015

Also a warning: about 2/3 of the way up, there's a loose chunk that looks like it's commonly used as a jug. I chalked an X on it. It's maybe a couple of fists in size, but a section below it also wiggles when I pulled.
By Morgan Patterson
Jun 16, 2014

Anyone been on this rig yet?
By DNegreiro
Jul 20, 2014

I would also like to know. If not I'll try it soon.
By Echoinfi
Oct 13, 2014

Great Rig. Really fun and strange.
By WiseOldMoon
From: West Hartford, Connecticut
Apr 7, 2015

Got on this yesterday and managed to flash it. I wish the bolts were placed on the right wall but I can see how it probably helped for rope drag.
By Morgan Patterson
Apr 8, 2015

Awesome. Ya there was some discussion about which wall to place the bolts. There were several factors that lead to us placing them on the left wall. One was the right wall has sections of very questionable rock while the left wall is solid the whole way up. Second, was if they were on the right slab you would be taking falls onto the slab which is generally not preferred. One's preference of where they should be prob depends a bit on what technique is used to climb. We would like to have a bolt on Tax Evasion Haven so you could climb straight up into the route rather then start in the corner but we don't believe there is any rock able to withstand a bolt AND keep one off the ground.
By John K. Parejko
From: New Haven, CT
Jun 26, 2015

Just climbed this today (following a different leader). It's definitely fun. Thanks to whoever set it!

One question though: what can we do about the poison ivy at the start of the route (the patch of dirt on top of the large block)? It's exactly in the line of where the rope drops, and where loose rope feeds, and it requires doing the splits on the way down to avoid standing in it.
By Morgan Patterson
Jun 29, 2015

Dig out the ivy roots and dirt... That would take care of it.
By John K. Parejko
From: New Haven, CT
Jul 2, 2015

Clipped out most of the poison ivy in the dirt at the start today. There are probably plenty of roots still left, but at least there's no more leaves for ropes to drag through.
By Morgan Patterson
Jul 6, 2015

Awesome work John. Thanks buddy!
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