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Gideon Quarry
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Cracking Up T 

Cracking Up 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Haston & Cliff Phillips, 1984
Page Views: 109
Submitted By: Rob Davies UK on Oct 19, 2011

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The wider section of crack at the top

Description 

The crux is low down where the crack is thin. Easier middle section then a trickier finish. Originally graded E3 6b, now E2 5c. The grade may be only Indian Creek 5.9 if you are strong with thin fingers!

Location 

After entering the quarry, cross to the other side (big slabs visible down in the upper hole to the left). The obvious zigzag crack in the upper wall is the route. Walk uphill on slopes right of the quarry nearly to the top of the workings and get to the base of the climb via a good track beneath the uppermost level.

Protection 

Cams from 1" to 5"


Photos of Cracking Up Slideshow Add Photo
The thin section of crack (photo by Phil Ashton)
The thin section of crack (photo by Phil Ashton)
The line could not be more obvious! (photo by Phil...
BETA PHOTO: The line could not be more obvious! (photo by Phil...
The hard way to do the start by laybacking
The hard way to do the start by laybacking

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