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Cracking Up 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,085
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 26, 2003
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Stemming up the crux section of Cracking Up.

Description 

Cracking up is a nice 5.6 to the right of Bagatelle (rt 179). Ascend the very steep initial section using some stemming. About 10 feet off the deck try some solid laybacks and inch your way up until holds appear on the right-hand wall. Climb about 15 feet to another section of laybacks. Use this technique to get near the top, then finish on easier terrain.


Protection 

Bring your Big Bro's for this one.



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By Ta-Chi Wang
May 24, 2009

Agree with Doug. This is a great route: long, moderate, easy-to-protect, and exposed, deserving more people to lead it. I used a Camalot #6 (#5 will also do if you put it deeper) on the crux and the layback on it was just much FUN!

By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Aug 29, 2009

I walked my biggest cam up continuously. the sequence was as follows; layback move, layback move, hike feet up, walk cam, repeat as necessary. Should see more traffic. Better than Foreplay for sure and I thought it was less fun than Curving Crack (albeit on different rock with some slight differences in style)

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 7, 2009

Big gear!

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 8, 2009

Did this route yet again, recently. Two pieces of Big Gear is a good idea.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 8, 2009

Doug... the climber at the base of the climb (had just led Crack'n Up himself) while you were climbing commented he was impressed with your taking advantage of the run-outs this climb affords....

By NickinCO
From: colorado
Oct 17, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Big gear for sure! My first trad lead, I went up with a few C4 #4's and wished I had some 5's and 6's. I did get to place a #2 big bro which was sweet.

By Gokul
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Fun lead. I had no big gear on me, so ended up running out most of it - found two spots along the way that took hand-sized cams.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Oct 31, 2011

It's quite possible to get decent side-gear in Epiphany, too, to your right. However the gear in Epiphany is pretty technical: small, fairly shallow, and you have to get the right piece in *just* the right position for it to be really good.

By await
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

A pair of #3 BD Camalots worked well for me(a little bit run out)