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Cracking the Code 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dan Hare, Fred Knapp, Rob Stanley
Page Views: 1,008
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Feb 17, 2002

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The last pitch.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I have not climbed the whole route, (there are a total of three pitches) but the first pitch is great romp!

P1. A wolf in sheep's clothing, this is the bolted line just left of "A Little Insecure" and is described in the text but not shown on Rossiter's topo of the rock. I had gone up to do "Crash Test Blondes" and wanted to do a warm-up first. I saw this bolted line up what appears to be a low angle slab and pre-judged it to be in the 5.8-9 range. 6 clips later and a real good pump, I had changed my mind to at least 11b/c!. I never even knew what I had gotten on till a few days later when I finally read the route description in the book. I thought this route was technically harder than "Blondes", with great edging and a devious high-step crux on excellent rock!

P2. 2 5.10 cruxes. 10.

P3. According to S. Kimball, the last crux is on loose flakes. According to J. Collins, you can combing P2 & P3 in 90'. 9+.


Protection 

6 draws plus anchors for 1st pitch.



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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 12, 2002
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I did all 3 pitches and liked the whole route. It is appt'ly named, as the crux is complex, but not so physically hard. I didn't high-step either. The first pitch was 5.11b or 5.11c and the second was 5.10. The third felt like 5.10 as well, but maybe that was the pump factor. I lead the first two pitches as one for sure, and if I remember correctly, I lead the entire thing as a single pitch on a 70M rope. Sorry, but I don't recall how much rope was left at the end. I did skip some clips and use some 2' long slings along the way to avoid drag. We walked off of the top.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 6, 2003

The first pitch is a little ugly compared to the other routes nearby. The upper pitches look good, but I didn't do them. I'll be back for those pitches.

The first pitch seemed easier than two 11a's I did the same day, Led Astray and Cold Shot. One hard move between good stances. If it were trad, I'd call the first pitch 10b/c. I say that, because I more often than not cannot onsight 10c trad clean (I know that's redundant) yet I onsighted this quite easily. The rating of this may be consistent with modern sport climbing standards, but I can't say, being new to sport climbing after 30+ years trad.

By Elijah Flenner
Jan 9, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I also believe that 11b is on par with other sport routes in Boulder Canyon. The climbing is not powerful, but good use of your feet is key.

By Joe Collins
Sep 19, 2003

If you don't do the 2nd pitch, then you're missing out. The first pitch, in of itself, is probably not two-star quality. I thought the better climbing was on the 2nd pitch. The position is also excellent, though there is a bit of looseness. Climbing all the way to the top from the anchors at the top of pitch 1 is about 90 feet of climbing and one 60m rope easily gets you back down to that anchor.

By S. Kimball
Jan 17, 2004

Thank you Joe, P2 & P3 combined offers great position with 3 mid 5.10 cruxes the 3rd. and highest on loose/friable flakes.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 7, 2008

The first pitch is indeed cryptic and on the first attempt I was perplexed. Aided by beta, the second attempt went much better. The second pitch is pretty good but is still somewhat dirty, unless I was way off-route. I'm pretty certain you can rappel from the 2nd-pitch anchors with a 60m rope.

By slim
Administrator
Nov 10, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

We thought this route kind of sucked. Awkward first pitch but pretty well protected. My partner had a little bit of trouble clipping the bolt before the crux but managed.

Second pitch completely blows. Wanders all over the place trying to find the hardest climbing. Bolts are poorly located resulting in biners loading over edges, rope running over edges, etc. The anchor is kind of a botched job as well as it isn't well equalized.

Not really worth doing.