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This sweet crack climb follows the furthest right crack on the east face. Hike uphill along the base of the east face past all the other routes. Begin 30 feet left of the enormous corner.
P1: Delicately ascend the runout slab to join the main crack system. Follow the exciting flared hands/offwidth crack until you have no more rope. Save some big pieces (3-5 inch) for the belay.
P2: Continue up the crack passing two trees (optional belays) to reach the summit. Rappel 55 feet west from bolted anchors on 'The Raven'.
Standard Flatiron rack with extra hand/ offwidth size (2-5 inch) gear. Offset cams useful. The first 100ft is a little runout but possible to protect with some imagination.
|By neil chelton|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 16, 2010
I'm not sure if this is a first ascent or not, but I can't find it in any guidebooks or websites, so I climbed the thing and gave it a name. The crack is currently filled with mud, making protection harder to place. More traffic up this awesome route should clear it out. It's totally worth the extra uphill hike to reach this beauty.