Crackin' Up 

Climbed this route, spectactular for 5.7! Gear from #.5 - #3 BD
No doubt a must do at Pilot Mt

by far the best trad line at Pilot. Can get wet up top but it protects very well. Go all the way up to the roof try to fight the urge to traverse on the slab to the bolted anchors if you are a 5.7 leader. Last placement before the traverse can be a #3 or #4, but the don't place well in the wall. Other than that use your imagination anything from .75 to #3 will do. Also some good nut placements.

The three photos show water running down the center of the face. True, lasting for some days after enough rain to soak through the ground to the level below the big roofs. Which part of the face will be wet and stay wet longest varies; but 'Crackin' Up' is not part of the leaking. It is almost always dry. However, the ledge just below the 'Turkey Shoot' rings will hold water for a lot longer than the wall may be wet. George says climb above that level; but if the ledge is wet, traversing below it will keep you more dry. Tip: take a small hand towel.

Kelley's rating was 5.8 for leading. As George says, the climb itself is more like 5.7, with as much lie-back and undercling on the massive flake as you like, or face climbing.

LL

A pretty mellow lead, but fun. Good stances for rest, clean falls, and great pro make this a good first trad lead.