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Crackhouse

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Birth Canal, The T 
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Crackhouse  


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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jordan Wood on Apr 18, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Climbing through hands section of the Crackhouse.

Description 

The Crackhouse is a small bouldering cave just north of Moab. Although there aren't many problems, the quality of those there more than makes up for any lack in quantity. About ten feet off the ground, the roof of the cave is split by a system of splitter cracks that offer up to about forty feet of continuous, all points in, horizontal roof crack climbing.

Getting There 

The cave is located on the North side of Gemini Bridges road, (very) roughly about half way between 191 and 313. I once tried to approach from the 191 pull off, but spent all day hiking and never found it. A much easier approach is from 313.

Take 191 North from Moab. Pass the Gemini Bridges pull off, and turn left on highway 313. Go somewhere around ten miles and turn left on Gemini bridges road. The road is marked and there is a large gravel pull-off on the Northeast corner of the intersection. From this side, the road is drivable by pretty much any car, but makes for a nice walk if you've got time. Either way, follow the signs to Gemini Bridges, which is pretty straight forward. Eventually, you'll see a sign telling you to park, and a walking trail breaks right that goes to the bridges. Rather than taking this turn, continue going straight on the road for about a quarter to half mile. The crackhouse is right off the road on you left. There is a pull off and you'll see two side-by-side entrances. You can't miss it. (It's 6.3 miles from the Gemini Bridges turn off to the cave)

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Crackhouse:
The Birth Canal   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad   
The Crack Whore   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 25'   
The Crackhouse   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+     Trad, Boulder, 85'   
Browse More Classics in Crackhouse

Featured Route For Crackhouse
Yeah, come do me!

The Crack Whore 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  UT : Moab Area : Crackhouse
The Crack Whore is a 25-30 foot off-width roof bouldering problem. Start as far back in the cave as possible and climb out to the lip. A variation "The Crack Head" (11+) is to climb through the squeeze chimmney in the middle avoiding the crux (turning the lip). ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Crackhouse Slideshow Add Photo
More fun inside the Crackhouse.  Attempting to turn the corner.  Doesnt get much better!
More fun inside the Crackhouse. Attempting to tur...
The traverse into the Crackhouse.  Jugs all the way.
The traverse into the Crackhouse. Jugs all the wa...
The uphill entrance to the Crackhouse.
BETA PHOTO: The uphill entrance to the Crackhouse.
Lindsay in the Crackhouse. <br /> <br />Photo by Loren Wood
Lindsay in the Crackhouse.

Photo by Loren Wood
Greg on the perfect hands variation start
Greg on the perfect hands variation start
You wanna go, toughguy?
You wanna go, toughguy?
Bjorn loving those jams.
Bjorn loving those jams.
Me in the Crackhouse. <br /> <br />Photo by Loren Wood.
Me in the Crackhouse.

Photo by Loren Wood.
Bouldering at the Crackhouse, circa March 2003(?). The climber pictured is possibly the late Erica Kutcher, who was tragically killed in an avalanche near Shipton Spire in Pakistan.
Bouldering at the Crackhouse, circa March 2003(?)....
Eric cruxin out on a long line at the crackhouse.  This thing must be 60' of horizontal crack and it gets really hard at the very end with worsening fall potential.
Eric cruxin out on a long line at the crackhouse. ...
Bouldering at the Crackhouse circa March 2003(?). Climber unknown.
Bouldering at the Crackhouse circa March 2003(?). ...
Handjams are neat-o.
Handjams are neat-o.
Bouldering at the Crackhouse circa March 2003(?). Climber unknown.
Bouldering at the Crackhouse circa March 2003(?). ...
the crackhouse boulder is super fun
the crackhouse boulder is super fun

Comments on Crackhouse Add Comment
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By Dane Casterson
From: Boulder
Apr 24, 2007
Good description Jordan. Surprised that nothing from this area has been added already. If you havent been there make a point of it. Real tough but a lot of fun. I have a low clearance car that made it no problem. Inside the cave there is everything, thin, hands, and fist. And its completely overhanging with good landings! Once you get pumped inside the cave there is a great traverse outside of the cave. The traverse is long but there are no hard moves. Dont forget the tape.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008
Dean Potter sends the whole thing in some video. Stout! Started at the far right end traversing left down the lip for ~100' and then reverse the Birth Canal to get into the main roof crack. After this it's only 60+ feet (maybe longer) of horizontal roof jammin and it gets wide at the end as you get higher off of a progressively worse landing. At the very end you have to pull through nasty .75 camalot until you can do this messed up gaston move to establish above the roof. Worst fall potential at the end.

If you can send the traverse, that's pretty solid. If you can send the crack section you are a beast with some serious huevos. If you put the two together and do the whole thing, you are insane strong.

CL
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jul 9, 2009
What fun! I don't know if I'll ever send the whole thing, but will certainly be back for a few more tries.
By NickP
From: Golden, CO
Oct 22, 2010
I left my shoes here at the beginning of the traverse. If anyone can pick them up, I would happily buy you a 6-pack for your troubles. They are blue Rafter sandals.
Thanks!