A Table Rock classic that roasts in the sun on the south face. The bombay chimney on the last pitch is a delightful squirm.
This is the obvious corner/crack/chimney system that splits the south face of Table Rock.
Start: Beneath the obvious corner system. There is often a cheater stack at the base to help folks through the hard first move.
P1: Make a hard high step (perhaps the crux of the route), then wander up the crack in the corner to below the big roof (older anchor below roof). Exit right (5.7) through steep ground on good holds and belay above. NOTE: If you don't want to bring big cams (4" or so) to belay in the main crack, there is a stance up and right on a block. The pro for this second anchor is good but tricky to find.) EDIT: Apparently there are bolts here now. Who knows how long they will last.
P2: Move up the widening crack. Navigate a bulge (great hand jams in the back) and pull into an alcove atop a chockstone in the chimney (possible belay). Squirm up the chimney above.
This is the obvious corner/crack/chimney system that splits the south face of Table Rock. It is visible from the parking lot.
Approach by hiking the TR summit trail a few hundred yards until the East Face climber's trail cuts right. Go ~200 feet along the East face trail, then look for a small trail heading uphill. Follow this small trail for ~100 yards.
The climb starts below the obvious corner. Look for a cheater stack that often helps folks through the challenging first move.
Nuts and cams to 3"; optional 4" piece for the belay atop P1.
View towards the Chimneys from the first belay sta...
BETA PHOTO: 1st pitch
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 5, 2009
There are bolts atop P1 boulder now. I would say a 4" or 5" is mandatory for the offwidth start for P2.
|By Peter Pitocchi|
Sep 18, 2011
Big gear helpful. Chimney section short I think 5.7 with adequate pro. Take big gear and walk it up the 5.8 offwidth early on second pitch. By big I mean threes, fours, maybe a five. First few moves on p1 are not protected.
|By Mike Holley|
From: Boone, NC
Mar 13, 2012
All around Great Climb with a little bit of everything!!! First pitch has excellent face climbing with tons of pro. There are old bolt anchors under the main roof with bushes around it on the first pitch, but climb up and right through the juggy roof section to arrive a'top a massive boulder with brand spanking new bolt anchors under the beginning of the second pitch crack. Second pitch is super fun, a little spooky just because of the awkwardness of your body position. Big gear is helpful but you can totally find places for mid sized gear as well! Leave your backpack on the ground if you can because it makes this second pitch a pain to wear one!!
|By brian k sohn|
From: knoxville, tn
May 23, 2012
The first pitch can be top-roped with a 70 meter rope.
|By Cody Bradford|
From: Boone, NC
Jun 18, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
There are two options for the 2nd pitch chimney:
1. You can stay on the outside of the Chimney which is more featured and less awkward.
2. You may choose to romp it up inside the chimney where it is possible to place a 5 or 6 Camalot in the back. (You may want to take your helmet off for this option)
No need for anything larger than a number three on this one. Just slide it up the back of the crack as you move.
Apr 12, 2013
Anyone know if the 12a that breaks off to the left after P1 is still doable? It's in the guidebook, but I don't see it here. Called Helios I think?
|By Jonathan Dull|
From: NC High County
Sep 4, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This is a fantastic climb with sustained climbed throughout. Getting off the deck takes a little thinking and a spot may be in order. The climbing is pretty steep and I remember actually hanging off a perfect jam with 90+ feet below me! As previously mentioned continue up and right through the steep (and juggy) section and you will find the bolted belay just below the start of the 2nd pitch chimney/offwidth . I seconded the second pitch with a pack dangling between my legs, and it sucks!! Either leave the pack on the ground or try and grab the lead for 2nd pitch.
|By Brian Payst|
Apr 28, 2014
We climbed this on 4/27/2014 and there is a basketball sized loose block at the exit moves near the top of the chimney on the 2nd pitch. Use caution as it's easy to grab it from below when reaching up for a jug. I was going to trundle it, but there were people in the area below. Fun route, but you want to be solid at the grade, we didn't use anything larger than a #3 Camalot.