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Great Chimney Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 
Coup d'Etat T,TR 
Cracker Jack T,TR 
Dirty Day TR 
Get Jacked T,TR 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 
Handle With Care T,TR 
Hot Beef Injection T 
Match the Snatch T,TR 
Milking the Bull TR 
Overlooked T,TR 
Pale Rider T 
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 
Practice Chimney  T 
Son Of Great Chimney T 
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 
Whipping Boy T 
Wild West Homo T,TR 

Cracker Jack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown by me
Page Views: 1,687
Submitted By: Cory Bartholomew on Oct 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Isaac Therneau at a rest halfway up Cracker Jack o...

Description 

An awesome crack route with a huge ledge in the middle that makes it fun to do in two pitches. The bottom crack let's even the most clueless face climber sink perfect jams. The only negative is it tops out near the "survey marker" on the West Bluff and is often crowded with hikers checking out the stunning view.

Protection 

standard rack


Photos of Cracker Jack Slideshow Add Photo
The lower crack with great passive pro.
The lower crack with great passive pro.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 15, 2011
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 28, 2006

Man, that is the best protected X route I have ever done...
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Nov 9, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I corrected it--not X.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 20, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good route. The bottom crack is fun and some of the moves make you feel quite exposed.
By G. Neely
From: Madison, WI
Sep 25, 2009

Dust off and bring the hexes! The bottom crack (and most fun section) feels like 5.6, while the next section contains the crux and trickier gear placements. A leader should be strong at the 5.8 grade and vigilant about the ledge in the event of a leader fall. In other words, use your gear.
By Ed Wright
May 4, 2010

Had a mini epic when I soloed this one onsight. The bottom crack to the big ledge went smoothly but the next 15 feet were hard. What looks like another good ledge is actually a smooth sloping ramp with NO holds. Finally found a bit of a micro-edge in the upper right corner, moved up and onto the ledge, stuck my hands into the twin cracks above and about a thousand angry wasps came flying out. I got stung about 30 times as I flew up the rest of the route.
By Tradoholic
Oct 17, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I didn't like this thing at all. The ledge breaks it up too much, the mantles are awkward, the top cracks are awkward, the top out is annoying with the touristas AND there seems to be a million flys living in the upper crack!
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 18, 2010

Hee Hee.. Yup- them moves above the ledge are devious and can really sucker ya.. I think many folks end up having the same experience on this.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Oct 18, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

How about some cheese with that whine Rhoads. ;)
Yeah the upper cracks are not as much fun as the lower half. IMO better to do this in two pitches.
By Tradoholic
Oct 18, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

FU Remo, I led this with a totally jacked middle finger after you spent all summer "Oooooooo, my POOR ankle (whine, whine, sniff, sniff)".

IMHO that this climb not be done at all.

Jay knower to myself during lead: "How's it going Rhoads?"

Rhoads: "It fucking sucks, I love it."
By Josh Knapp
From: East Troy, Wisconsin
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is cracker-Jacked!
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Jul 15, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

the climbing on the first pitch is good...though the protection is shitty... its a hand crack that opens up in the back making your placements shit... a few passively placed cams did the trick. The second pitch of this climb pretty well sucks.