Isaac Therneau at a rest halfway up Cracker Jack o...
An awesome crack route with a huge ledge in the middle that makes it fun to do in two pitches. The bottom crack let's even the most clueless face climber sink perfect jams. The only negative is it tops out near the "survey marker" on the West Bluff and is often crowded with hikers checking out the stunning view.
Dust off and bring the hexes! The bottom crack (and most fun section) feels like 5.6, while the next section contains the crux and trickier gear placements. A leader should be strong at the 5.8 grade and vigilant about the ledge in the event of a leader fall. In other words, use your gear.
Had a mini epic when I soloed this one onsight. The bottom crack to the big ledge went smoothly but the next 15 feet were hard. What looks like another good ledge is actually a smooth sloping ramp with NO holds. Finally found a bit of a micro-edge in the upper right corner, moved up and onto the ledge, stuck my hands into the twin cracks above and about a thousand angry wasps came flying out. I got stung about 30 times as I flew up the rest of the route.
By Tradoholic Oct 17, 2010 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
I didn't like this thing at all. The ledge breaks it up too much, the mantles are awkward, the top cracks are awkward, the top out is annoying with the touristas AND there seems to be a million flys living in the upper crack!
Hee Hee.. Yup- them moves above the ledge are devious and can really sucker ya.. I think many folks end up having the same experience on this.
By Remo From: Madison, WI Oct 18, 2010 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
How about some cheese with that whine Rhoads. ;) Yeah the upper cracks are not as much fun as the lower half. IMO better to do this in two pitches.
By Tradoholic Oct 18, 2010 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
FU Remo, I led this with a totally jacked middle finger after you spent all summer "Oooooooo, my POOR ankle (whine, whine, sniff, sniff)".
IMHO that this climb not be done at all.
Jay knower to myself during lead: "How's it going Rhoads?"
Rhoads: "It fucking sucks, I love it."
By Josh Knapp From: East Troy, Wisconsin Jun 19, 2011 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
This route is cracker-Jacked!
By Ryan Strong From: Golden, CO Jul 15, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
the climbing on the first pitch is good...though the protection is shitty... its a hand crack that opens up in the back making your placements shit... a few passively placed cams did the trick. The second pitch of this climb pretty well sucks.