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Cracked Actor 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,067
Submitted By: saxfiend on May 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Cracked Actor 5.10a

Description 

Probably the nicest trad line at Leda. Great pro all the way makes some of the dicey moves more mentally bearable.

Start as for Free to Think, bouldering up through the juggy roof to a ledge. Move left to the obvious crack in the left face; follow this feature as it turns into a short, awkward off-width. After negotiating the off-width, continue up the thinning finger crack, saving some reserves for a juggy but pumpy roof move at the finish.

Location 

Shares start with Free to Think, about 15' left of Speedway Boogie.

Protection 

Mostly small to medium gear, though at least one big cam will be necessary in the off-width section. Ring anchors at the top.


Photos of Cracked Actor Slideshow Add Photo
Me in the off-width section. Great Climb!
Me in the off-width section. Great Climb!
In the crack!
In the crack!
Gabe moving up and out
Gabe moving up and out

Comments on Cracked Actor Add Comment
Show which comments
By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010

great gear, and good rests the whole way. make sure you face the right way in the offwidth!!
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jun 6, 2010

You can actually forego the big stuff. Boulder up to the ledge, walk left and put a piece or two in. Climb up into the offwidth - hard to fall out - put in a piece at the top before pulling the fingerlock and getting established in the upper crack and face. Wish the upper part was about 50 feet longer.
By Chad Burdyshaw
From: Signal Mountain TN
Aug 27, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If you're short on trad gear, you can toprope this route by climbing one of the neighboring sport routes (fanfair, speedway boogie) and traversing the ledge to the anchors. Same for "Free To Think".
By highneed
Aug 20, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Beautiful crack, that climbs as good as she looks. The crux is finding it without top ropers that walked over from Speedway.
By Jeremy Hand
Aug 23, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Awesome squeeze with some slightly hidden crimps that help with the ascent. Finagle your way out of the OW and clamber through the finger locks to jugs.

IMHO, this is one of the best routes at LEDA, whether trad or TR