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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian Spiewak, Jim Smith, James Barnett, Ted Doughty
Page Views: 842
Submitted By: mschlocker on Feb 2, 2013
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Crackamite is the crack in the corner.

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A very nice left facing dihedral hand crack with an overhangning right wall. There are sections with poor feet or poor hands but rarely both simultaneously. The crux comes high up once you start to get tired.

The route has it all from delicate face climbing to chimneying (so say the scratches on my right shoulder) but the majority is a really nice hand crack.


Starts from the right side of the Holey Moley ledge. Obvious left facing dihedral.


Protects really well with cams 3/8" to 4". A lot of cams in the #2 C4 range are useful. Slings and quickdraws for the nature of the route.

Photos of Crackamite Slideshow Add Photo
Before the tough sections of Crackamite.  You can see why having a few slings is a good idea.
Before the tough sections of Crackamite. You can ...
Just for fun.  This route used to not exist until gravity won.  It was called "under the knife" appropriately.
Just for fun. This route used to not exist until ...
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By bspiewak
Nov 2, 2013

The dihedral is actually ~115' long. There is an anchor/rap at a 90' stance and another at the top of the corner (no stance). It's absolutely worth climbing through to the end. Clip the 115' anchor and lower to the 90' anchor/stance, belay your partner up from there, lower them to the ground and do one rappel back to the large dirt ledge.

And it's best approached by climbing the other striking 115' dihedral below it, Matchbook. Or Bruzer Head as Randy suggests, just avoid running your rope through the dirt at the edge of the ledge.

By Leavittator
Nov 23, 2013

or approach by the bolted slab, Bruzer Head (5.7)