Login with Facebook
Right Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bruzer Head S 
Crackamite T 
Double Decker T,S 
I'm Your Huckleberry T 
Line of Fire S 
No Place To Hide T,S 
Over The Edge S 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian Spiewak, Jim Smith, James Barnett, Ted Doughty
Page Views: 1,588
Submitted By: mschlocker on Feb 2, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Crackamite is the crack in the corner.

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


A very nice left facing dihedral hand crack with an overhangning right wall. There are sections with poor feet or poor hands but rarely both simultaneously. The crux comes high up once you start to get tired.

The route has it all from delicate face climbing to chimneying (so say the scratches on my right shoulder) but the majority is a really nice hand crack.


Starts from the right side of the Holey Moley ledge. Obvious left facing dihedral.


Protects really well with cams 3/8" to 4". A lot of cams in the #2 C4 range are useful. Slings and quickdraws for the nature of the route.

Photos of Crackamite Slideshow Add Photo
Before the tough sections of Crackamite.  You can ...
Before the tough sections of Crackamite. You can ...
Just for fun.  This route used to not exist until ...
Just for fun. This route used to not exist until ...

Comments on Crackamite Add Comment
Show which comments
By bspiewak
Nov 2, 2013

The dihedral is actually ~115' long. There is an anchor/rap at a 90' stance and another at the top of the corner (no stance). It's absolutely worth climbing through to the end. Clip the 115' anchor and lower to the 90' anchor/stance, belay your partner up from there, lower them to the ground and do one rappel back to the large dirt ledge.

And it's best approached by climbing the other striking 115' dihedral below it, Matchbook. Or Bruzer Head as Randy suggests, just avoid running your rope through the dirt at the edge of the ledge.
By Leavittator
Nov 23, 2013

or approach by the bolted slab, Bruzer Head (5.7)
By ForrestMB
Nov 8, 2014

Such a great route! It provided enough respite from the sun on a hot August afternoon to boot. Thanks for work on this one gentlemen! And I took bspiewak's advice on clipping the anchor but climbing to the very top and it was well worth it! I couldn't imagine what it was like trying to climb it when that large flake was sitting up there!
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!