A very nice left facing dihedral hand crack with an overhangning right wall. There are sections with poor feet or poor hands but rarely both simultaneously. The crux comes high up once you start to get tired.
The route has it all from delicate face climbing to chimneying (so say the scratches on my right shoulder) but the majority is a really nice hand crack.
Starts from the right side of the Holey Moley ledge. Obvious left facing dihedral.
Protects really well with cams 3/8" to 4". A lot of cams in the #2 C4 range are useful. Slings and quickdraws for the nature of the route.
Before the tough sections of Crackamite. You can ...
Just for fun. This route used to not exist until ...
Nov 2, 2013
The dihedral is actually ~115' long. There is an anchor/rap at a 90' stance and another at the top of the corner (no stance). It's absolutely worth climbing through to the end. Clip the 115' anchor and lower to the 90' anchor/stance, belay your partner up from there, lower them to the ground and do one rappel back to the large dirt ledge.
And it's best approached by climbing the other striking 115' dihedral below it, Matchbook. Or Bruzer Head as Randy suggests, just avoid running your rope through the dirt at the edge of the ledge.
Nov 23, 2013
or approach by the bolted slab, Bruzer Head (5.7)